Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Doe Crag was the one great climbing ground which had many new,
unexplored courses upon it, and the almost certain knowledge Jones
had of their existence is evident to all who read his chapter in the
present book. These delightful descriptions of the gullies are in every
way accurate at the present time, except that the Intermediate Gully
is now ascended direct over every pitch; it is only necessary in this
Appendix to carry the tale through another epoch--the Buttress epoch.
This started in March 1903, when Mr. F. Philipson and the writers
made the ascent of the two most prominent buttresses. Since that time
the various remaining buttresses and their subsidiary ridges have
been ascended in such detail and thoroughness as characterize the
nail-scratched rocks of Scawfell and the Pillar. These courses are now
described, irrespective of merit or difficulty, as they occur from
left to right as one stands facing the crags at a point slightly above
Goat’s Water. The nomenclature is that adopted by Mr. G. F. Woodhouse
in his excellent monograph, and by those who later made virgin ascents
on this magnificent crag. It but remains to be said that, whereas the
gullies are almost exclusively for expert and ultra-expert parties, the
buttresses offer climbs which in many cases may be safely undertaken by
parties of moderate strength.
[Illustration: DOE CRAG, SEEN FROM ACROSS GOAT’S WATER
A A Buttress.
B B Buttress.
C C Buttress.
D D Buttress.
E E Buttress.
_f_ Easy Gully.
_g_ Great Gully.
_h_ Central Chimney.
_j_ Intermediate Gully.
_k_ Easter Gully.
_l_ North Gully.
_m_ A Buttress Climb. _Original Route._
_n_ A Buttress Variations.
_o_ B Buttress. _Broadrick’s Route._
_p_ The Lion’s Crawl.
_q_ Easy Terrace.
_r_ B Buttress. _Original Route._
_s_ B Buttress. _Woodhouse’s Routes._
_t_ C Buttress Climb.
_t_^1 C Buttress Climb Variation.
_t_^2 Branch exit from Intermediate Gully.
_v_ D Buttress Climb.
_w_ Blizzard Chimney.
_x_ Easter Gully. _Jones’ Route and continuation up E Buttress._
_y_ Easter Gully. Broadrick’s Crack.
_z_ E Buttress Climbs.
3 The Real Chimney.
4 Woodhouse’s Crack.]
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