Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
We found our way safely to the entrance of our chimney and started up.
Almost immediately we passed the branch gully on the left. It looks
very formidable, and indeed its first pitch is undoubtedly hard. It
consists of a two-storied cave, the first floor composed of three
jammed stones, which are passed by backing up the crack and traversing
outwards. The second pitch is of a simpler character, consisting
of a cave that can be passed on either side. We had no designs on
this variation, and were contented to throw a casual glance towards
the lower obstacle as we proceeded up the rocky bed of our central
chimney. Our field of view soon became very limited, for the clean-cut
parallel walls on either side were scarcely five feet apart, and the
average slope of the gully exceeded forty-five degrees. During the
first hundred feet the work was distinctly safe and easy, but a glance
backward at the point whence we had started, seemingly the first
stop in the event of our falling, made us both inclined to imagine
dangers in our way. The side walls in intense gloom formed a fitting
frame to the narrow picture of the distant sunlit fells. The general
aspect of the situation closely resembled that of the upper half of
Collier’s climb on Scawfell, and of the Oblique Chimney on Gable Crag,
though in each of those cases the chimney is at a considerable angle
to the vertical, whereas here the fissure in the rocks is almost
perpendicular. We were a little perplexed by some ice that had frozen
in large rounded knobs to a thickness of eight or ten inches over a
steep six feet of the gully. An axe would have summarily disposed of
any icicles of doubtful security, but we had not expected any such
evidences of cold and were unprovided. The ice was not absolutely
continuous; here and there we could kick out levels for our feet, and
to our relief the trouble was passed in a few minutes. Then came the
worst bit of the ascent--the scene of my discomfiture eighteen months
before. First came a vertical wall stretching across the gully, and
rising twenty feet above our somewhat insecure standing. Beyond that
the gully sloped evenly to the dark recesses of a cave, the jammed
boulder of which almost appeared vertically above our heads. We mounted
an upright block at the foot of the wall, and prospected for holds.
None were visible. I peered at the sides in search of scratches, which
would show whether the earlier party or parties had backed up the
chimney. No! they had not availed themselves of that process. Then,
with the conviction that an indirect way must exist, we examined
the walls a few feet below the pitch, and at last hit upon a way of
mounting higher. I was belayed by a rope passing round the upright
block already referred to, and proceeded to walk along the horizontal
edge of a thin crack on the right wall, leaning across to the other
side of the gully for general support on the hands. I had implicit
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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