Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
trust in the rope and the man at the other end of it, or the manœuvre
would have given me agonies of apprehension. Just as the second step
was being made along the crack, its thin edge broke away under my foot
and I slipped a few feet down the gully, till the rope tightened and
brought me to a stop. A second attempt was more successful. The edge
was followed till it expanded into a respectable foothold, and then,
holding myself straight, I was able to reach good ledges for the hands.
It was now easy to stride across to the left wall and climb directly
upwards along its crest to a platform large enough for both of us;
hither my companion followed me, adopting almost the same tactics and
taking but half the time. We were now virtually out of the gully, and
found the sunshine pleasant after so much darkness. But the joy that
might have attended our remaining efforts in working up to the head of
the chimney was marred by the reflection that we had not conquered the
chief difficulty; we had only avoided it. This is right and proper for
snow-climbers, but distinctly unorthodox for cragsmen. Our doubts grew
as we advanced, and at last I proposed to descend again and settle them
finally. This suggestion was met with a very prompt approval, and ten
minutes later found me at the foot of the vertical wall again. It did
not look any easier, and I am not prepared to say how narrowly I missed
a second failure. After leaving the upright block the scanty holds soon
disappeared, and with some desperate struggling I found myself backing
up the chimney with the feet thrust hard against the left wall. Both
sides seemed dangerously smooth, but cautious wriggling for a distance
of two or three feet brought a handhold within reach, and the top of
the wall was gained. The only other ascent known to me was by a man
with a singularly long reach, and in some marvellous way he managed to
climb the wall without any backing up.
Thence to the cave was fairly easy after a few mossy loose stones
had been flung down, and the finish was effected by a neat little
ledge along the left wall, passing out just at the edge of the pitch.
The hole through the cave is not so small as the first investigators
imagined; the trouble in passing through is due to its crookedness,
but the name of the chimney is generally supposed to indicate with
proper remoteness the garment that is here threatened with a complete
inversion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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