Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
There are many pleasant reminiscences of parties in Deep Ghyll. The
hardest struggle I ever had with the first pitch was on Christmas
Day, 1897. The rocks were badly glazed, and though we had no trouble
in penetrating to the inmost recesses of the cave, we could find no
easy way of getting higher. We were loth to try, seeing that one of
our party had, with a mistaken philanthropy, loaded his rücksack with
preserved fruit, prunes, and Carlsbad plums, and proceeded forthwith
to dignify our primitive lunch with these unwonted luxuries. A halt
called to consume a beef sandwich may be quickly terminated--and
that, moreover, without a sense of sorrow, unless the beef is very
bad--but those who know Carlsbad plums will realise how easily we were
demoralised by their seductiveness, and how much we preferred to sit in
our cave and argue on complicated topics with the plum-box open. But
the owner was a man of some resolution, and heroically vowed that we
should see no more of the plums till we reached a small recess at the
top of Moss Ghyll, where we should ensconce ourselves after climbing
the gully. So we made a start at once. The back way out of the cave
promised well at first. It showed no trace of ice, but on emerging
from the chimney (at the spot where the lower figure is shown in the
View facing p. 12), and looking straight down to the entrance of the
cave, it was found that a thin sheet of ice covered all the rocks.
Generally speaking it would be better to let the rocks alone on such
an occasion--in fact always, unless Carlsbad plums are at stake. Then,
perhaps, the second man may be held firmly by the rope from behind
while he gives the leader a shoulder. This help is of no use unless
the leader can venture to trust the icy handhold above him, by which
he is to swing round the awkward corner to the right. Some such scheme
our party devised, after many futile attempts to fix an axe firmly as
a foothold, and the leader dragged himself up the glazed surface to
the deep snow above. In the ordinary state of things, be it remembered
that where the climber emerges from the hole, he has first to stride
round to a small ledge on the right. He can use as a take-off the
rough surface of the boulder, and can reach a rigid handhold of small
dimensions but good shape. Thence to the top of the pitch is easy
scrambling, though care is needed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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