Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
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Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The snow in the gully was in grand condition for kicking steps, and
after the last man had been brought up the pitch in safety we marched
to the upper cave and discussed the question of route over the second
pitch. The direct way was ruled out of court at once, for its largest
ledges are but half an inch wide, and ice on these rendered them
useless. With a keen recollection of our trouble down below, we thought
of the Robinson Chimney on the right, which is quitted by crossing
on to a slabby rock that slopes down towards the centre of the gully.
With ice on this an attempt to force the way up would more likely find
us shooting over to the foot of the cave. Such a finish to our little
day would no doubt exactly coincide with the anticipations of our more
sanguine relatives and friends, but for the moment we had to consider
each other’s feelings and I suggested the easy way up. There was a
smiling unanimity of agreement in the party which pleased me far, very
far more than a hundred strictly impossible ascents. We descended the
gully again to the foot of the rock slope, and rounded into the little
chimney. Things went very well for a few feet. But as we rose the ice
became more troublesome, until it was necessary to chip it away from
each diminutive ledge, and to proceed upwards with the utmost caution.
The first part finished with a little snow patch twenty feet above the
top of the cave boulder and the bed of the ghyll. Some years before,
when first I visited Deep Ghyll, we had found it impossible to climb
directly upwards from this point, and a man was let down by the rope
into the ghyll. He cut steps up until he had obtained a higher level
than the others waiting, and then induced them to traverse out a bit
and jump into the snow below. The process was possible only with a long
rope. Here we could all rest and contemplate the rock slab opposite
which finishes the Robinson Chimney. Forty or fifty feet higher we
could see, well marked out by the snow, the upper traverse that enables
a careful walker to pass up Deep Ghyll without any hand-and-foot work.
It is readily accessible from the Lord’s Rake, a few feet higher than
the ordinary entrance to Deep Ghyll, and leads at an easy angle to a
point in the main gully some hundred feet above the second pitch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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