Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Passing the entrance to Moss Ghyll, to which we must return for the
ascent of this fine gully, a steep rise marks the accomplishment of
one-third of the course. A little further a thin cleft cuts obliquely
up the cliff towards the left. It is wonderfully straight, and the
slabs of rock on either side are hopelessly smooth. The crack widens
higher up, but until 1897 the terrific simplicity of its lower portion
had warned off all who examined it with the view of storming this side
of Scawfell. The upper half, reached by an ingenious zig-zag route on
the face, is now well known as one of the safest and best climbs on
Scawfell. Shortly afterwards we reach a rectangular recess looking as
though it had been quarried for a gigantic monolith. Here again the
great difficulty of starting up is manifested at a glance, though in
the same direction up above the recess is so much more deeply cut and
the sides so much nearer to each other that one’s safety is assured for
the second half of the climb. In this case also, the middle is reached
by a slight detour on the left. A few yards further along the Progress
are two thin cracks uniting at a height of twenty feet and leading to
a platform ten feet higher. Thence a perfectly safe cleft passes
directly up for another forty feet, till a grassy ledge, clearly
visible only when marked by snow, takes one easily to the middle of the
long chimney. To mount the chimney is an undertaking well within the
powers of the average rock-climber, and with the additional merit of
being perfectly safe for a party of three.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abrahams & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE ASCENT OF THE BROAD STAND
(_Face page 30_)]
Such are the Keswick Brothers’ Climb and Collier’s Climb, two of
the best conceived problems of the district and worthy of their
discoverers. The lower half of the latter is undeniably severe; even
the best have failed at it, and I propose in a separate section to
describe an ascent in detail, to point out the method our party adopted
to eliminate the risk that the climber is popularly supposed to accept
as inevitable, and to indicate how the Keswick Brothers’ route enables
us to avoid the worst piece altogether.
The next halt we make close to the Mickledore, within thirty-five feet
of the end of the Progress. Here a thin cleft, known as Petty’s Rift
for the last twenty years, leads to a square recess ten feet up, and
marks the start of the North or Penrith Climb up the Scawfell crags.
These are now only a few score feet above us. The illustration facing
page 26 shows how the upper outline of the cliff and the Mickledore
ridge approach to within a few feet of each other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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