Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Having reached the Mickledore ridge it is well worth while walking
along it to its furthest end, and then bearing to the left on to the
Pulpit rock, for the sake of the fine view of the climbs we have
just been enumerating. The Eskdale side of Scawfell is terminated by
an abrupt vertical cliff that seemingly offers no sort of route for
the cragsman. Half way down to the corner of this cliff, a gully cuts
deeply into the mountain, and passes upwards at an apparent angle of
45° towards the tops of Moss Ghyll and Collier’s Climb.
The gully--Scawfell Chimney or Mickledore Chimney, as it is sometimes
distinctively called--has its own peculiar difficulties in wet or snowy
weather, but when at its best it may be attacked by comparatively
inexperienced men, if they are properly equipped and exercise ordinary
precautions. On the other hand, the gully represents the drainage
channel for a considerable area, and is usually wet.
Undoubtedly the easiest way from Mickledore up to the ridge facing us
is by the Broad Stand. The start is made in the cleft half way between
Mickledore and the foot of Scawfell Chimney. Three short pitches, each
less than ten feet, take us on to an easy slope that can be followed
to the upper part of the chimney. To keep up between the chimney on
our left and the steep cliffs to our right is an easy matter in clear
weather, till Pisgah appears on our right, the descent into Deep Ghyll
straight in front of us, and the cairn-crowned summit of the mountain a
hundred yards away towards the left.
This finishes the preliminary survey of the eastern face of Scawfell,
during the perusal of which the reader is recommended to examine the
diagram facing page 46.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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