Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Speaking of the Saas peaks which ‘were designed in pairs,’ he writes:--
‘It is, perhaps, to our credit that we took an easy pair first--the
Mittaghorn and the Egginer--but our stay at Saas that year was to be
short, and we could not afford to fail at higher work. A couple of
Saas loafers undertook to guide us, but proved to be lamentably weak.
They shed tears and ice-axes, and required much help from us dismayed
amateurs. Then we left the district, and before my next visit my
comrades were scattered over the globe, beyond the seductive influence
of axe and rope.’
How characteristic of poor Jones the whole of that passage is! The
unconcealed evidence of his own great physical strength, the playful
sense of humour--his friends will remember how he used to explain his
own initials, O.G., as standing for the ‘Only Genuine Jones’--in the
words ‘they shed tears and ice-axes,’ and the touch of pathos, in the
light of after events, of the phrase ‘beyond the seductive influence of
axe and rope.’
The omission of the names of the Mittaghorn and Egginerhorn from
Jones’s own list in 1892 shows that even his own record cannot be
regarded as complete, a thing not to be wondered at considering the
enormous amount of work he did.
It will be noticed that in this year, as in the year before and in
1894, Jones has entered the names of peaks and passes that in the
succeeding years he would have considered quite unworthy of serious
notice.
But next year he ventured on a feat that, so far as I know, was not
only extraordinary for one with comparatively so little experience
of the higher Alps, magnificent climber though he was, but it has
remained, I believe, unique in the annals of the great mountain on
which it was performed. At Easter, 1893, Jones climbed the Dent
Blanche, the mountain with which his name will be for ever associated
in the climbing world. The ascent was made on the 25th and 26th April,
and the expedition took thirty-six hours, a wonderful feat of strength
and endurance. M. Adrien Spahr, the landlord of the Hotel de la Dent
Blanche at Evolena, and of the new Kurhaus at Arolla (from which Jones
started the day before his last, fatal climb), has kindly favoured me
with the following brief note in reference to that expedition:--
‘C’est bien le 25 Avril, 1893, que Monsieur Jones a fait
l’ascension de la Dent Blanche avec les guides Pierre Gaspoz et
Antoine Bovier père d’Evolène. Je suis redescendu moi-même avec lui
depuis Evolène à Sion.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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