Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition — John Shaqi
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
In an interview which appeared in the press in 1894 Jones said of this
climb, one of the most difficult things he ever did:--‘The longest
day I ever had afoot was at Easter, ’93, doing the Dent Blanche. We
took two guides and a porter, and had great difficulty in getting
them to attempt the last two hundred feet. We were out in the open
for thirty-six hours, with very short rests, no sleep, and excessive
labour, but we revelled in every minute of it. The mountain was in a
dangerous condition, and the last five hours on the way home we spent
in wading, waist-deep, through soft snow. It was rather painful, of
course, but there was a certain pleasure even in our pain, for it
helped to make philosophers of us. We agreed to think of other things
in the midst of our sufferings, and we succeeded creditably well. I
believe now that I could stand almost anything in the way of pain or
exposure.’
In 1894 he commenced in the Engadine and then went on to the Dolomites,
where his great skill as a cragsman and his familiarity with all
sorts of rock-work made him much more at home than he yet was among
the snow-peaks, as his list shows. On rocks I think it is not using
the exaggerated language of friendship to say that he probably had
no superior among his countrymen at the time of his death, and
comparatively few equals. Among the great snow-peaks he had not
attained so high a level. Had he lived he would, I believe, have ranked
with the greatest, for he had not done all he was capable of; and when
he met his death he was still in his prime, and he was a man of great
courage, immense resourcefulness, and phenomenal physical endurance.
In 1895 he devoted himself largely to the reduction of the great peaks
in the Zermatt district, some of which he already knew. In that year
also he returned to the Dom Grat and the Fletschhorn Ridge, whose
acquaintance he had made in 1892. The following passage from the
_Alpine Journal_ derives an added interest from the fact that Elias
Furrer was his guide then, as he was his guide on the last, fatal
climb:--
‘In August, 1895, Elias Furrer took me from the Täsch Alp to the
Mischabeljoch, and thence over the Täschhorn and Dom to Randa, a course
of seventeen and a half hours, including halts. Shortly afterwards
Mr. W. E. Davidson followed our route from the Mischabeljoch. During
the same week Furrer showed me a third pair of the Saas peaks. We
bivouacked on the Eggfluh rocks one bitterly cold night, and next day
traversed the Südlenspitze and Nadelhorn. The usual _grande course_
is to include the Ulrichshorn, and descend to Saas again; but Furrer
had business and I fresh raiment at Zermatt, and we hastened over the
Stecknadelhorn (or was it the Hohberghorn?), and thence by the Hohberg
Pass and Festi glacier down to Randa in fourteen hours from the start.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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