The gardens with which Philip V. surrounded his palace cover an area of
three hundred and sixty acres, and are the finest in the kingdom, while
even the admirers of Versailles admit that La Granja has the more
amazing fountains. From the grand walk one looks out across a panorama
of the rocks and forests of New Castile, or gazes down upon the
beautiful extravagancies of these literally hand-made gardens. The
formal design of the ground-plan, the regularity of its well-ordered box
avenues and mazes, the artificiality of its numerous fountains, its
marble vases and statuary, and the baths and summer-houses that rise out
of the dwarf-like vegetation, are all in striking contrast with the wild
grandeur of the distant scenery. Yet, artificial as the aspect
undoubtedly is, the gardens are a sheer delight, for beyond the
flower-beds are masses of yellow broom and springing ferns, and the
grass is a blaze of wild hyacinths, forget-me-nots, cowslips, and
periwinkle. Higher up the mountain, to where the sky-line shows, 3000
feet above the palace, are woods of chestnut trees, oaks, elms, and
innumerable pines, in which myriad butterflies of every hue disport
themselves, and scores of streams trickle down to feed the royal
fountains in the gardens below. The statues representing Lucretia,
Bacchus, Apollo, Daphne, America, Ceres, and Milo, and many others, are
of no great artistic value; while the fountains, to the number of
twenty-six, are unique. The Fama, which throws up its waters to a height
of 130 feet, is the most renowned; and from another fountain, compact of
sculptured flowers and fruits, forty spouts send out their two-score
jets 80 feet high. The Cenador is a single vast cascade of gleaming
water from the mountain snows. Then there are the Ranas (Frogs), Ocho
Calles, Canastillo, Tres Gracias, and the Neptuno, at which, says M.
Bourgoin, the Egotist read Virgil and quoted ‘quos ego.’ Last of all,
there is the wonderful Baño de Diana, to which reference has already
been made.
Here, where Art is truly French, and Nature is truly Spanish, where even
Nature conceives in bleak discomfort for eight months in each year to
bring forth four months of flowers and faërie, the King of Spain and his
English bride retired to surroundings amid which a honeymoon will not
be forgotten. Madrid has its magnificent royal palaces; El Pardo boasts
its wondrous tapestries; Aranjuez its gardens, and Rio Frio its
orchards; El Escorial is the eighth wonder of the world, and Miramar
looks over the yellowest of golden sands into the bluest of blue waters;
but La Granja, in the Guadarrama Mountains, is that place apart where
lovers may find a bower
‘Of coolest foliage, musical with birds’;
and here one may listen to
‘The murmurs of low fountains that gush forth
I’ the midst of roses!’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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