The auxiliary residence to the palace of San Ildefonso, located some
fourteen miles from it beyond the city of Segovia, is the royal house of
Rio Frio, situated in a picturesque park which is full of game of every
description. The small elegant building which stands in the centre of
the park was begun by Isabel, the widow of Philip V., and was completed
internally by Alfonso XII. It is a two-storied square building, the four
sides of which are all exactly alike, and a large square court, paved
with granite flags, occupies the centre of the building. A large portico
of Tuscan pilasters surrounds the court and supports a covered gallery
on the level of the first floor. From this court a noble staircase,
consisting of two independent flights, which start from the vestibule in
opposite directions, each subdividing into two other parallel ones, on
the level of the first landing. The two independent flights end at the
first floor at the opposite ends of the room which is used as a
guardroom for the halberdiers. The steps are of granite, and the
balustrades, which are supported by figures of children in various
attitudes, are of a pretty yellow limestone. The sculpturing is also in
stone, but it was unfortunately painted white, thus depriving it of its
artistic merit, and giving the appearance of plaster. The whole of this
work is from the chisel of Bartolomé Seximini. The entire weight of the
staircase rests on four large Tuscan columns (monoliths), constructed of
granite, and eight semi-columns of the same kind.
The apartments on the first floor, which with the exception of the
sacristy and chapel on the ground floor are the only rooms that call for
description, are decorated and furnished with a simplicity that would
seem to betoken actual poverty. This is accounted for by the fact that
the royal family very seldom resides in this palace; and at such times
whatever is required is conveyed there from the palace of San Ildefonso.
On the other hand, the collection of pictures is superior in number and
merit to that of San Ildefonso, for among its six hundred and
fifty-eight pictures there are many originals of the great masters of
the different schools. There is one each of Van Dyck, Titian, Albert
Dürer, and Goya; two by Zurbaran, Navarrete, Guido de Reni, Pantoja de
la Cruz, and Correggio; eight by Jordán, three by Teniers, four by
Domenichino, and six by Poussin.
III
EL PARDO
At the royal residence of El Pardo Maria Cristina was lodged on the eve
of her marriage with Alfonso XII. in 1879. Seven years later in the same
palace she wept beside the deathbed of her husband, the father of the
unborn king, Alfonso XIII. For a score of years El Pardo was avoided by
the queen-mother, until, in 1906, Don Alfonso brought to the suburban
palace the English princess who, on the 31st of May of that year, went
in state to the church of San Jeronimo to be married to the King of
Spain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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