The Convent of San Pascual was founded by Charles III., and the theatre
in the town owed its inception to the same monarch. The convent church
contains only a few valuable pictures, but it is rich in marble and
beautifully carved wood. The convent library possesses many ancient
manuscripts, and the convent grounds are famous for their beauty, but
the gardens of the royal palace are the crowning glory of Aranjuez.
That most entertaining author and indefatigable dispenser of Testaments,
George Borrow, travelled in Spain at a time when royalty was battling
for its very existence. He found the country dangerous and desolated,
and the country homes of its kings fallen into a state of neglect. When
he was in La Granja, the palace of San Ildefonso was shut up, and the
town which surrounds the patrimony of the Crown of Spain was practically
deserted. He had no better luck in Aranjuez. He admits the beauty of the
district, but he describes the place as in a state of desolation; he
recalls the fact that Ferdinand VII. spent his latter days in its palace
surrounded by lovely señoras and Andalusian bull-fighters, and
quotes--perhaps with more sentiment than sympathy--the words of
Schiller:
‘The happy days in fair Aranjuez
Are past and gone.’
‘Intriguing courtiers no longer crowd its halls,’ he reflects; ‘its
spacious circus, where Manchegan bulls once roared in rage and agony, is
now closed, and the light tinkling of guitars is no longer heard amidst
its groves and gardens.’ One feels as one reads these passages that
Borrow was not at his best as a moralist. One prefers him when he is
describing in his lively, absorbing manner his personal experiences, and
is glad to learn that he disposed of eighty Testaments in desolate
Aranjuez, and that he ‘might have sold many more of these Divine books’
if he had remained there a longer period.
But we are sorry that Borrow did not see the Palace Gardens in April or
May, when the view from the Parterre is one of almost unsurpassed
loveliness. The Reina, Isla, and Principe Gardens are furnished with a
multitude of bridges, grottoes, fountains, and cascades, bordered and
surrounded by an exuberance of plants and flowers from England, France,
and the East, all bathed by the waters of the Tagus, and made musical
with the notes of myriad birds. ‘The Nightingale that in the Branches
sang’ returns in his thousands every spring, and we hear ‘The melodious
noise of birds among the spreading branches, and the pleasing fall of
water running violently.’ Here are Oriental trees, palms, and the cedars
of Lebanon, and interspersed with them are the first elms introduced by
Philip II. into Spain from England, which grow magnificently under the
combined influence of heat and moisture. The impressionable and
responsive Edmondo de Amicis writes of Aranjuez:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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