‘The interior of the royal building is superb, but all the riches
of the palace do not compare with the view of the gardens, which
seem to have been laid out for the family of a Titanic king, to
whom the parks and gardens of our kings must appear like terrace
flower-beds or stable-yards. There are avenues as far as the eye
can reach, flanked by immensely high trees, whose branches
interlace as if bent by two contrary winds, which traverse in every
direction a forest whose boundaries one cannot see; and through
this forest the broad and rapid Tagus describes a majestic curve,
forming here and there cascades and basins. A luxurious and
flourishing vegetation abounds between a labyrinth of small
avenues, cross roads, and openings; and on every side gleam
statues, fountains, columns, and sprays of water, which fall in
splashes, bows, and drops, in the midst of every kind of flower of
Europe and America. To the majestic roar of the cascade of the
Tagus is joined the song of innumerable nightingales, who utter
their plaintive vibratory notes in the mysterious shade of the
solitary paths. Beyond the palace, and all around the shrubberies,
extend vineyards, olive-groves, plantations of fruit trees, and
smiling meadows. It is a genuine oasis, surrounded by a desert,
which Philip II. chose in a day of good humour, almost as if to
temper with the gay picture the gloomy melancholy of the Escorial,
and in which one still breathes the atmosphere, so to speak, of the
private life of the kings of Spain.’
The Jardines de la Reina are of minor importance, but the Jardines de la
Isla, comprising the four divisions which are known as Parterre, La
Estatuas, Isla, and Emparrado, are filled with natural and created
beauties. In the Isabel II. Garden is a bronze statue of the queen,
erected to commemorate the political events of 1834. It is surrounded by
a handsome iron railing, and completed by eight stone seats and as many
marble vases mounted on pedestals. The Jardines de Principe, a much more
modern preserve, are divided into four departments, and bisected by
avenues that lead to the various small squares and to the Princesa,
Apollo, Blanco, and Embajadores Avenues, the last of which terminates in
the little Pabellones Garden of the time of Ferdinand VI. In addition to
these princely gardens there are the English Garden, remarkable for its
carved rock supporting a well-modelled swan; the Chinese Garden with its
banana plantations; and the Garden of the Princess, acquired in 1535,
and adorned in 1616 with a mechanical clock, decorated with twelve
bronze figures that play on bronze trumpets. On the banks of the swiftly
flowing river are the paddocks of the Crown, where camels and llamas
roam, and a stud farm, where are bred English and Spanish blood horses
and the beautiful cream-coloured animals of the Aranjuez stock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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