Rugs: Oriental and Occidental, Antique & Modern: A Handbook for Ready ReferenceHolt, Rosa Belle
History
Rugs: Oriental and Occidental, Antique & Modern: A Handbook for Ready Reference
Holt, Rosa Belle
Rugs; Rugs, Oriental
Madder ranks high among those plants which yield a permanent dye. It
belongs to the genus _Rubia_; the root employed is that of the _Rubia
tinctorum_. This is largely cultivated in certain districts of India,
but the best comes from near Smyrna, and from other parts of Asiatic
Turkey. The plant grows wild throughout a large section of Central Asia
and Russia. With both the European and the Indian madders the roots of
the plants are the only parts that yield the dye. In the roots three
coloring matters are obtained: alizarin and purpurin, which are both
red, and xanthin, which is yellow. Cochineal was introduced for dyeing
purposes in 1856. It is the product of an insect called _Coccus cacti_,
which lives on a species of cactus. Yellow is often produced from
Persian berries, turmeric, saffron, and sumac.
Tyrian purple dye was greatly prized by the Phoenicians. As stated
above, it was obtained from a shellfish; but the secret was known only
to the maritime Canaanites. The art of producing this dye has been lost,
although some aver that in recent years it has been re-discovered.
Kermes, red in color, is one of the oldest of all dyes. It was known in
Syria, 1200 B.C. It is not so brilliant as cochineal, but it is much
more durable. Plutarch is authority for the statement that after one
hundred and ninety years stuffs dyed with kermes retained their original
color. The dye is the product of the bodies of females of the species of
coccus which infest certain trees along the Mediterranean coasts. When
the Romans conquered Spain, a part of the tribute demanded was paid with
these little bodies.
Greens are obtained from various sources. The Chinese green is a dye
obtained from _Rhamnus chlorophorus_ and _Rhamnus utilis_, a genus of
shrubs. The fruit of several buckthorns, or the Persian berries, as they
are generally called by dyers, also give greens and brilliant yellows.
Most of the greens, however, are produced by the combination of indigo
with yellow.
Indigo, mentioned by Pliny as Indicum, yields the deep blue dye so much
prized by the Romans. Arrian speaks of indigo, and says that it was
exported from Barbarike, on the Indus, into Egypt. This plant is grown
in India, China, North and South America, Mexico, Central America,
Africa, Japan, Madagascar, and Jamaica. When the Indian indigo plant,
_Indigofera tinctoria_, is in flower, it contains the largest quantity
of coloring matter. The beautiful vegetable and animal dyes which were
compounded with consummate skill are now largely supplanted by the
chemical dyes which are easily obtained. But in years to come the
commercialism of the present will probably give way to the restoration
of the splendid dyeing of the past.
ORIENTAL COLORS
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