Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
“White Feather,” my faithful, travel-wise, long-tried
camel, kneels beside me ready to move. I have seen to it that the
riding-saddle—a slim, perched-on, Tuareg saddle of the Sahara—is
comfortable on the animal, and secure and level, for it is to serve
for many hours to come. On the long, hard day that lies ahead every
detail is important. In their places, calculated with purpose to
balance on either side of the saddle evenly, are hung an old army
water-bottle, a pair of field-glasses, a revolver, and two grass
saddle-satchels with dates, tobacco, ammunition, and maps; while over
the flanks drop leather buckets containing a shot-gun and a rifle.
It is too dark to see the worn condition of equipment, battered
and broken by months of “roughing it” in the open; nor men
who are rugged and hard, and lean as the camels they saddle,
from strain of relentless effort. Yet those conditions are there,
uncovered till kindness of night departs and reveals the sternness
of endless enduring.
At the end of an hour we start, and two long lines of camels head
northward into the darkness. And thenceforth the din, that was
in camp, dies out; broken only once or twice, to begin with, as a
camel protests while watchful native runs alongside to straighten
an uneasy load.
Soon there is scarcely a sound, and the soft-footed caravan moves
ghostlike over a great empty land that is dead.
The long, exacting march has begun, and another day’s effort to
conquer the vastness of Space and Sand.
At the start the camels travel well. The men are slightly urging the
pace by persuasive foot-pressure on the nape of the neck. They want
to make the most of this hour, but they do not press the animals
inconsiderately, for long, hot hours lie in front. Always the best
pace of the day is made during the cool hour before dawn and through
the delightful hour succeeding it.
I ride alongside Elatu’s camel, up in front of the caravan,
and enter into low conversation to gather the vital news of the
morning. Elatu—a tall, lean Tuareg of some thirty years—is my
head camel-man, and a ceaseless worker of exceptional ability. He
is one of those very fine natives whom a white man may win and come
to hold in esteem, conquered by sheer value of labour and fidelity.
Our minds are on the welfare of the caravan. “How sits the saddle
on Awena this morning?” I asked. “Is the sore worse?”
“Yes,” Elatu answered. “But, before I slept last night, I made
a rough cradle to try to keep the saddle from rubbing; and he carries
his load to-day. But he cannot last. To be any good again he must
reach a place to rest and recover strength, and heal the wound.”
“Owrak has no load to-day, nor Mizobe, and that swollen foot of
Tezarif will give trouble before the sun sets.”
“Bah! This desert is no good. We know that camels must die. In
my far-distant home I have seen them die since childhood. But
Allah hits hard this moon[1]—and the way is yet far. We need our
camels now.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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