Salt mines and castles: The discovery and restitution of looted European artHowe, Thomas Carr
History
Salt mines and castles: The discovery and restitution of looted European art
Howe, Thomas Carr
Art -- Europe; World War, 1939-1945 -- Art and the war; World War, 1939-1945 -- Confiscations and contributions
We had lost two more hours in the course of the night, so it was only
seven-thirty when we swooped down at Orly field, half an hour from
Paris. It was a beautiful morning and the sun was so bright that it
took us a few minutes to get accustomed to the glare. As we walked over
to the airport office, we had our first glimpse of war damage at close
range—bombed-out hangars and, scattered about the field, the wreckage
of German planes. But the airport was being repaired rapidly. Trim new
offices had been built and additional barracks were nearing completion.
Craig and I booked places on the afternoon plane for London and then
climbed onto the bus waiting to take us into Paris.
Thanks to various delays in getting out of Washington, we had missed
the Paris celebration of VE-Day by a margin of three days. So we were
about to see the wonderful old city at the beginning of a period of
readjustment. But a peaceful Sunday morning is no time to judge any
city—least of all Paris. Everything looked the same. The arcades along
the right side of the Rue de Rivoli and the gardens at the left were
empty, as one would expect them to be. We turned into the Rue Castiglione
and came to a halt by the column in the Place Vendôme.
After we had checked our bags at the ATC office, we walked over to the
Red Cross Club on the Place de la Concorde. We shaved, washed and then
had doughnuts and coffee in the canteen.
Our next move was to call Lieutenant Colonel Geoffrey Webb, the British
officer who was head of the MFA&A Section at SHAEF headquarters in
Versailles. Before the war, Colonel Webb had been Slade Professor of
Art at Cambridge. I explained to him that Smyth and I had arrived but
that our orders directed us to report first to Naval Headquarters in
London—ComNavEu—and that as soon as we had complied with them we would
be back. That was all right with the colonel. He said that Lieutenant
Kuhn, USNR, his deputy, was away on a three-day field trip and wouldn’t
be returning before the middle of the week. And we were primarily Charlie
Kuhn’s problem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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