Salt mines and castles: The discovery and restitution of looted European artHowe, Thomas Carr
History
Salt mines and castles: The discovery and restitution of looted European art
Howe, Thomas Carr
Art -- Europe; World War, 1939-1945 -- Art and the war; World War, 1939-1945 -- Confiscations and contributions
And after all that planning nothing had happened, until three weeks ago.
Then everything had happened at once. The orders directed me to report to
SHAEF for duty with the Monuments, Fine Arts and Archives Section, G-5,
and additional duty with the Allied Control Council for Germany.
The papers had been full of stories about German salt mines—the big one
at Merkers where our troops had found the Nazi gold and the treasures
from the Berlin museums. I was going to Germany. Would I find anything
like that?
I had flown to Washington to receive last-minute instructions. I was
to make the trip across by air and was given an extra allowance of
twenty-five pounds to enable me to take along a dozen Baedekers and a
quantity of photographic paper for distribution among our officers in the
field. I had been introduced to Craig Smyth while in the midst of these
final preparations. Like me, he was a naval lieutenant and his orders
were identical with mine. He was a grave young Princetonian, formerly on
the staff of the National Gallery of Art in Washington.
It was raining when we reached Stevensville, Newfoundland, early the
next morning. After an hour’s stop we were on our way again. Shortly
before noon we struck good weather and all day long sea and sky remained
unvaryingly blue. Late in the afternoon we landed on the island of
Terceira in the Azores. We had set our watches ahead two hours at
Stevensville. Now we set them ahead again. We took off promptly at seven.
This was the last lap of the journey—we’d be in Paris in the morning.
Presently our fellow passengers settled down for the night. Two of the
cushioned chairs were empty, so Craig and I took possession. They were
more comfortable than the cots, and as soon as the steward turned out the
lights I dropped off to sleep.
It was still dark when I awoke hours later, but there was enough light
for me to distinguish two black masses of land rising from the sea. On
one, the beacon of a lighthouse revolved with monotonous regularity. We
had just passed over two of the Channel Islands. The dawn came rapidly
and a pink light edged the eastern horizon. It was not long before we
sighted the coast of France. We flew into rosy clouds and, as they
billowed about the plane, we caught tantalizing glimpses of the shore
line below. The steward pointed out one promontory and told us it was
Brest. Soon we had a spectacular view of Mont St. Michel and the long
causeway over which I had driven years before on a sketching tour in
Normandy. I wondered what had become of Mère Poulard and her wonderful
omelettes and lobster. Some people said they had brought more visitors to
Mont St. Michel than the architecture. Very likely she was dead and the
Germans had probably disposed of her fabulous cuisine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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