Scientific American Supplement, No. 303, October 22, 1881Various
Science
Scientific American Supplement, No. 303, October 22, 1881
Various
Science -- Periodicals
Dotted or chenilled tulles are fabrics extensively used in the toilet
of ladies, and the ornamentation of which has hitherto been done by
the application to the tissue, by hand, either of chenille or of small
circles previously cut out of velvet. This work, which naturally takes
considerable time, greatly increases the cost price of the article.
A few trials at doing the work mechanically have been made, but without
any practical outcome. The workwomen who do the dotting are paid at
Lyons at the rate of 80 centimes per 100 dots; so that if we take
tulle with dots counter-simpled 0.04 of an inch, which is the smallest
quincunx used, and suppose that the tissue is 31 inches wide and that
the daily maximum production is one yard, we find that 400 dots at 80
centimes per 100 = 3 francs and 20 centimes (about 63 cents), the cost
of dotting per yard. It is true that the workwoman furnishes the velvet
herself.
Mr. C. Ricanet, of Lyons, has recently invented a machine with which he
effects mechanically the different operations of dotting, not only on
tulles but also upon gauzes or any other light tissues whatever, such
as those of cotton, silk, wool, etc. Aided by a talented mechanic, Mr.
Ricanet has succeeded in constructing one of those masterpieces of
wonderfully accurate mechanism of which the textile industry appears
to have the monopoly--at least it is permissible to judge so from the
remarkable inventions of Vaucanson, Jacquard, Philippe de Girard,
Heilmann, and others.
The object of this new machine, then, which has been doing its wonderful
work for a few days only, is to reproduce artificially chenille
embroidered on light tissues, by mechanically cutting out and gluing
small circles of velvet upon these fabrics.
For this purpose all kinds of velvet may be employed, and, in order to
facilitate the cutting, they are previously coated on the reverse side
with any glue or gum whatever, which gives the velvet a stiffness
favorable to the action of the punch. To effect the object desired the
apparatus has three successive operations to perform: first, cutting the
circles; second, moistening; and third, fastening down the dots upon the
tissue according to a definite order and spacing. The machine may be
constructed upon any scale whatever, although at present it is only made
for operating on pieces 31 inches wide, that being the normal width of
dotted tulles. The quincuncial arrangement of the dots is effected by
the punching, moistening, and fastening down of odd and even dots,
combined with the forward movement of the tissue to be chenilled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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