At its upper end the loch forks into two arms, that to the right
receiving the Orchy and other feeders, while that to the left runs
through the dark Pass of Brander, and there, in the river Awe, the
loch finds its outlet. Formerly the saying that 'it's a far cry to
Lochow' had more significance, for now the railway has made this grand
loch easily accessible, and as the line skirts the upper end of the
loch (where a large hotel has been built) and proceeds on terraced
banks through the Pass of Brander, crossing the rapids of the Awe on a
high bridge, the traveller enjoys the beauties of the district in a
large degree. The sail on the loch is, however, a part of the Highland
tour which no visitor should forego.
Ben Cruachan, whose double peak (the highest 3667 feet) dominates the
district, is one of the most striking of the Scottish hills, in its
massive form, magnificently swelling contours, and unique position,
giving perhaps a greater idea of bulk than other hills of the same
height. On three sides it rises from the water's edge, Loch Awe in its
two upper branches, the river Awe, and Loch Etive, the sea-loch into
which the latter runs, washing its base. The ascent of this noble Ben
is best made from the Bridge of Awe, a scene rendered familiar in
Scott's _Highland Widow_, and the view from the summit is magnificent.
No one will ever regret the toil of surmounting
'yon sovereign lord
Huge Cruachan, a thing that meaner hills
Might crush, nor know that it had suffered harm.'
LOCH ETIVE.
Coming round the base of Ben Cruachan by rail, and leaving the Pass of
Brander and the rapids of the river Awe, the observant traveller will
not fail to notice that the large and spreading water he now
approaches has the character of a sea loch. If no other indication
were given, the presence of brown sea-wrack along the margin of the
water would show that here the tides ebb and flow. Far away to the
right, surrounded by grand hills, and closed in at the distance by the
bulky shoulders of Buchael Etive, is the upper reach of the loch,
forming in itself a most attractive portion of Highland scenery. The
railway, however, confines itself solely to the south side of the
lower and salter reach of the water, separated from the inner loch by
a reef of rocks, through the chief opening in which the receding tide
rushes with the character of a waterfall. Passing along the loch,
there is seen on the north side the remains of Ardchattan Priory, one
of the three religious houses established in Scotland after the
pattern of those in the Val de Choux (Cabbage Valley, or, _Scottice_,
Kale Glen, as the recent historian of Pluscardyn ingeniously puts it)
near Chatillon, in Burgundy. Loch Etive narrows at its mouth at
Connell Ferry, and then opens grandly into Loch Linnhe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account