Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
The district includes a mass of valleys which vie with each other in
singularity of character and dissimilarity of climate. Some the rays of
the sun can never reach, they are so deep and narrow. In others the
very antipodes may be found, the temperature more like that of the
plains of Italy than of alpine France. This great range of climate has
a marked effect on the flora of these valleys: sterility reigns in
some, stones take the place of trees, débris and mud replace plants and
flowers: in others, in the space of a few miles, one passes vines,
apple, pear and cherry trees, the birch, alder, walnut, ash, larch and
pine alternating with fields of rye, barley, oats, beans and potatoes.
The valleys are for the most part short and erratic. They are not,
apparently, arranged on any definite plan: they are not disposed, as is
frequently the case elsewhere, either at right angles to, or parallel
with, the highest summits, but they wander hither and thither, taking
one direction for a few miles, then doubling back, and then perhaps
resuming their original course. Thus long perspectives are rarely to be
seen, and it is difficult to form a general idea of the disposition of
the peaks.
The highest summits are arranged almost in a horse-shoe form. The
highest of all, which occupies a central position, is the Pointe des
Écrins; the second in height, the Meije, is on the north; and the Mont
Pelvoux, which gives its name to the entire block, stands almost
detached by itself on the outside.
At the beginning of July, 1861, I despatched to Reynaud from Havre
blankets (which were taxed as “prohibited fabrics”), rope, and other
things desirable for the excursion, and set out on the tour of France,
but four weeks later, at Nimes, found myself completely collapsed by
the heat, then 94° Fahr. in the shade, so I took a night train at once
to Grenoble.
I lost my way in the streets of this picturesque but noisome town, and
having but a half hour left in which to get a dinner and take a place
in the diligence, was not well pleased to hear that an Englishman
wished to see me. It turned out to be my friend Macdonald, who confided
to me that he was going to try to ascend a mountain called Pelvoux in
the course of ten days, but on hearing of my intentions agreed to join
us at La Bessée on the 3d of August. In a few moments more I was
perched in the banquette _en route_ for Bourg d’Oysans, in a miserable
vehicle which took nearly eight hours to accomplish less than thirty
miles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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