Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69 — John Shaqi
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
There, sure enough, was the cairn he had helped to erect more than
thirty years before. But where was the Pic des Arcines which we were to
see? It was nowhere visible, but only a great expanse of snow, bordered
by three lower peaks. Somewhat sadly we moved toward the pyramid,
sighing that there was no other to conquer, but hardly had we gone two
hundred paces before there rose a superb white cone on the left, which
had been hidden before by a slope of snow. We shouted, “The Pic des
Arcines!” and inquired of Sémiond if he knew whether that peak had been
ascended. As for him, he knew nothing except that the peak before us
was called the Pyramid, from the cairn he had, etc., etc., and that it
had been ascended since. “All right, then: face about;” and we
immediately turned at right angles for the cone, the porter making
faint struggles for his beloved pyramid. Our progress was stopped in
the sixth of a mile by the edge of the ridge connecting the two peaks,
and we perceived that it curled over in a lovely volute. We
involuntarily retreated. Sémiond, who was last in the line, took the
opportunity to untie himself, and refused to come on, said we were
running dangerous risks, and talked vaguely of crevasses. We tied him
up again and proceeded. The snow was very soft: we were always
knee-deep, and sometimes floundered in up to the waist, but a
simultaneous jerk before and behind always released one. By this time
we had arrived at the foot of the final peak. The left-hand ridge
seemed easier than that upon which we stood, so we curved round to get
to it. Some rocks peeped out one hundred and fifty feet below the
summit, and up these we crawled, leaving our porter behind, as he said
he was afraid. I could not resist the temptation, as we went off, to
turn round and beckon him onward, saying, “Don’t be afraid—follow me,”
but he did not answer to the appeal, and never went to the top. The
rocks led to a short ridge of ice—our plateau on one side, and a nearly
vertical precipice on the other. Macdonald cut up it, and at a quarter
to two we stood shaking hands on the loftiest summit of the conquered
Pelvoux!
[Illustration: MONT PELVOUX AND THE ALÉFROIDE, FROM NEAR MONT
DAUPHIN, IN THE VALLEY OF THE DURANCE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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