Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
We retired at last, but I was too excited to sleep. At a quarter-past
four every man once more shouldered his pack and started. This time we
agreed to keep more to the right, to see if it were not possible to get
to the plateau without losing any time by crossing the glacier. To
describe our route would be to repeat what has been said before. We
mounted steadily for an hour and a half, sometimes walking, but more
frequently climbing, and then found, after all, that it was necessary
to cross the glacier. The part on which we struck came down a very
steep slope, and was much crevassed. The word crevassed hardly
expresses its appearance: it was a mass of formidable séracs. We found,
however, more difficulty in getting on than across it, but, thanks to
the rope, it was passed somehow: then the interminable buttresses began
again. Hour after hour we proceeded upward, frequently at fault and
obliged to descend. The ridge behind us had sunk long ago, and we
looked over it and all others till our eyes rested on the majestic
Viso. Hour after hour passed, and monotony was the order of the day:
when twelve o’clock came we lunched, and contemplated the scene with
satisfaction: all the summits in sight, with the single exception of
the Viso, had given in, and we looked over an immense expanse—a perfect
sea of peaks and snow-fields. Still the pinnacles rose above us, and
opinions were freely uttered that we should see no summit of Pelvoux
that day. Old Sémiond had become a perfect bore to all: whenever one
rested for a moment to look about, he would say, with a complacent
chuckle, “Don’t be afraid—follow me.” We came at last to a very bad
piece, rotten and steep, and no hold. Here Reynaud and Macdonald
confessed to being tired, and talked of going to sleep. A way was
discovered out of the difficulty: then some one called out, “Look at
the Viso!” and we saw that we almost looked over it. We worked away
with redoubled energy, and at length caught sight of the head of the
glacier as it streamed out of the plateau. This gave us fresh hopes: we
were not deceived, and with a simultaneous shout we greeted the
appearance of our long wished-for snows. A large crevasse separated us
from them, but a bridge was found: we tied ourselves in line and moved
safely over it. Directly we got across there arose before us a fine
snow-capped peak. Old Sémiond cried, “The pyramid! I see the pyramid!”
“Where, Sémiond, where?” “There, on the top of that peak.”
[Illustration: MONT PELVOUX]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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