Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69 — John Shaqi
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
We left the summit at last, and descended to the rocks and to our
porter, where I boiled some water, obtained by melting snow. After we
had fed and smoked our cigars (lighted without difficulty from a common
match), we found it was ten minutes past three, and high time to be
off. We dashed, waded and tumbled for twenty-five minutes through the
snow, and then began the long descent of the rocks. It was nearly four
o’clock, and as it would be dark at eight, it was evident that there
was no time to be lost, and we pushed on to the utmost. Nothing
remarkable occurred going down. We kept rather closer to the glacier,
and crossed at the same point as in the morning. Getting _off_ it was
like getting _on_ it—rather awkward. Old Sémiond had got over, so had
Reynaud: Macdonald came next, but as he made a long stretch to get on
to a higher mass, he slipped, and would have been in the bowels of a
crevasse in a moment had he not been tied.
It was nearly dark by the time we had crossed, but still I hoped that
we should be able to pass the night at our rock. Macdonald was not so
sanguine, and he was right; for at last we found ourselves quite at
fault, and wandered helplessly up and down for an hour, while Reynaud
and the porter indulged in a little mutual abuse. The dreary fact that,
as we could not get down, we must stay where we were, was now quite
apparent.
We were at least ten thousand five hundred feet high, and if it
commenced to rain or snow, as the gathering clouds and rising wind
seemed to threaten, we might be in a sore plight. We were hungry,
having eaten little since three A. M., and a torrent we heard close at
hand, but could not discover, aggravated our thirst. Sémiond endeavored
to get some water from it, but although he succeeded in doing so, he
was wholly unable to return, and we had to solace him by shouting at
intervals through the night.
A more detestable locality for a night out of doors it is difficult to
imagine. There was no shelter of any kind, it was perfectly exposed to
the chilly wind which began to rise, and it was too steep to promenade.
Loose, rubbly stones covered the ground, and had to be removed before
we could sit with any comfort. This was an advantage, although we
hardly thought so at the time, as it gave us some employment, and after
an hour’s active exercise of that interesting kind I obtained a small
strip, about nine feet long, on which it was possible to walk. Reynaud
was furious at first, and soundly abused the porter, whose opinion as
to the route down had been followed, rather than that of our friend,
and at last settled down to a deep dramatic despair, and wrung his
hands with frantic gesture, as he exclaimed, “Oh, malheur, malheur! Oh
misérables!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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