Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
Thunder commenced to growl and lightning to play among the peaks above,
and the wind, which had brought the temperature down to nearly
freezing-point, began to chill us to the bones. We examined our
resources. They were six and half cigars, two boxes of vesuvians,
one-third of a pint of brandy-and-water, and half a pint of spirits of
wine—rather scant fare for three fellows who had to get through seven
hours before daylight. The spirit-lamp was lighted, and the remaining
spirits of wine, the brandy and some snow were heated by it. It made a
strong liquor, but we only wished for more of it. When that was over,
Macdonald endeavored to dry his socks by the lamp, and then the three
lay down under my plaid to pretend to sleep. Reynaud’s woes were
aggravated by toothache: Macdonald somehow managed to close his eyes.
The longest night must end, and ours did at last. We got down to our
rock in an hour and a quarter, and found the lad not a little surprised
at our absence. He said he had made a gigantic fire to light us down,
and shouted with all his might: we neither saw the fire nor heard his
shouts. He said we looked a ghastly crew, and no wonder: it was our
fourth night out.
We feasted at our cave, and performed some very necessary ablutions.
The persons of the natives are infested by certain agile creatures,
whose rapidity of motion is only equaled by their numbers and voracity.
It is dangerous to approach too near them, and one has to study the
wind, so as to get on their weather side: in spite of all such
precautions my unfortunate companion and myself were now being rapidly
devoured alive. We only expected a temporary lull of our tortures, for
the interiors of the inns are like the exteriors of the natives,
swarming with this species of animated creation.
It is said that once, when these tormentors were filled with an
unanimous desire, an unsuspecting traveler was dragged bodily from his
bed! This needs confirmation. One word more, and I have done with this
vile subject. We returned from our ablutions, and found the Frenchmen
engaged in conversation. “Ah!” said old Sémiond, “as to fleas, I don’t
pretend to be different to any one else—_I have them._” This time he
certainly spoke the truth.
We got down to La Ville in good time, and luxuriated there for several
days: we played many games of bowls with the natives, and were
invariably beaten by them. At last it was necessary to part: I walked
southward to the Viso, and Macdonald went to Briançon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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