Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
I visited the baths of Leuk, and saw the queer assemblage of men, women
and children, attired in bathing-gowns, chatting, drinking and playing
at chess in the water. The company did not seem to be perfectly sure
whether it was decorous in such a situation and in such attire for
elderly men to chase young females from one corner to another, but it
was unanimous in howling at the advent of a stranger who remained
covered, and literally yelled when I departed without exhibiting my
sketch.
I trudged up the Rhone valley, and turned aside at Visp to go up the
Visp Thal, where one would expect to see greater traces of glacial
action, if a glacier formerly filled it, as one is said to have done.
I was bound for the valley of Saas, and my work took me high up the
Alps on either side, far beyond the limit of trees and the tracks of
tourists. The view from the slopes of the Wiessmies, on the eastern
side of the valley, five or six thousand feet above the village of
Saas, is perhaps the finest of its kind in the Alps. The full height of
the three-peaked Mischabel (the highest mountain in Switzerland) is
seen at one glance—eleven thousand feet of dense forests, green alps,
pinnacles of rock and glittering glaciers. The peaks seemed to me then
to be hopelessly inaccessible from this direction.
[Illustration]
I descended the valley to the village of Stalden, and then went up the
Visp Thal to Zermatt, and stopped there several days. Numerous traces
of the formidable earthquake-shocks of five years before still
remained, particularly at St. Nicholas, where the inhabitants had been
terrified beyond measure at the destruction of their churches and
houses. At this place, as well as at Visp, a large part of the
population was obliged to live under canvas for several months. It is
remarkable that there was hardly a life lost on this occasion, although
there were about fifty shocks, some of which were very severe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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