Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
This, however, strange to say, was not quite the end of Ste. Geneviève.
A few of her relics were said to have been preserved: some bones,
together with a lock of the holy shepherdess's hair, were afterward
recovered, and replaced in the sarcophagus they had once occupied. Such
at least is the official story; and these relics, now once more
enclosed in a costly shrine, still attract thousands of votaries to the
chapel of the saint in St. Étienne-du-Mont.
The Panthéon, standing in front of the original church, is now a
secular burial-place for the great men of France. The remains of Ste.
Geneviève still repose at St. Étienne. Thus it is impossible to
dissociate the two buildings, which should be visited together; and
thus too it happens that the patroness of Paris has now no church in
her own city. Local saints are always the most important; this hill and
Montmartre are still the holiest places in Paris.
Proceed, as far as the garden of the Thermes, as on the excursion to
Cluny. Then continue straight up the Boulevard St. Michel. The large
edifice visible on the right of the Rue des Écoles to your left, is the
new building of the Sorbonne, or University. Further up, at the Place
du Sorbonne, the domed church of the same name stands before you. It is
the University church, and is noticeable as the earliest true dome
erected in Paris. The next corner shows one, right, the Luxembourg
garden, and left, the Rue Soufflot, leading up to the Panthéon.
The colossal domed temple which replaces the ancient church of Ste.
Geneviève was begun by Soufflot, under Louis XV., in imitation of St.
Peter's, at Rome. Like all architects of his time, Soufflot sought
merely to produce an effect of pagan or "classical" grandeur,
peculiarly out of place in the shrine of the shepherdess of Nanterre.
Secularized almost immediately on its completion, during the
Revolution, the building was destined as the national monument to the
great men of France, and the inscription, "Aux Grands Hommes la Patrie
Reconnaissante," which it still bears, was then first placed under the
sculptures of the pediment.
Restored to worship by the Restoration, it was again secularized under
the Third Republic in order to admit the burial of Victor Hugo. The
building itself, a vast bare barn of the pseudo-classical type, very
cold and formal, is worthy of notice merely on account of its immense
size and its historic position; but it may be visited to this day with
pleasure, not only for some noble modern paintings, but also for the
sake of the reminiscences of Ste. Geneviève which it still contains.
The tympanum has a group by David d'Angers, representing France
distributing wreaths to soldiers, politicians, men of letters, men of
science, and artists.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1 — John Shaqi
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