Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
Turning east toward Old Paris, we pass, on the right of the Rue St.
Honoré, the Church of St. Roch, of which Louis XIV. laid the
foundation-stone in 1633, replacing a chapel built on the site of the
Hôtel Gaillon. The church was only finished, from designs of Robert de
Cotte, in 1740. The flight of steps which leads to the entrance has
many associations.
"Before St. Roch," says De Goncourt, "the tumbrel in which was Marie
Antoinette, stopt in the midst of howling and hooting. A thousand
insults were hurled from the steps of the church as it were with one
voice, saluting with filth their queen about to die. She, however,
serene and majestic, pardoned the insults by disregarding them." It was
from these steps, in front of which an open space then extended to the
Tuileries gardens, that Bonaparte ordered the first cannon to be fired
upon the royalists who rose against the National Convention, and thus
prevented a counter-revolution. Traces of this cannonade of 13
Vendémiaire are still to be seen at the angle of the church and the Rue
Neuve St. Roch.
II
THE ENVIRONS OF PARIS
Versailles
By William Makepeace Thackeray
[Footnote: From "The Paris Sketch Book."]
You pass from the railroad station through a long, lonely suburb, with
dusty rows of stunted trees on either side, and some few miserable
beggars, idle boys, and ragged old women under them. Behind the trees
are gaunt, moldy houses; palaces once, where (in the days of the
unbought grace of life) the cheap defense of nations gambled, ogled,
swindled, intrigued; whence high-born duchesses used to issue, in old
times, to act as chambermaids to lovely Du Barri; and mighty princes
rolled away, in gilt caroches, hot for the honor of lighting his
Majesty to bed, or of presenting his stockings when he rose, or of
holding his napkin when he dined.
Tailors, chandlers, tinmen, wretched hucksters, and greengrocers, are
now established in the mansions of the old peers; small children are
yelling at the doors, with mouths besmeared with bread and treacle;
damp rags are hanging out of every one of the windows, steaming in the
sun; oyster-shells, cabbage-stalks, broken crockery, old papers, lie
basking in the same cheerful light. A solitary water-cart goes jingling
down the wide pavement, and spirts a feeble refreshment over the dusty,
thirty stones.
After pacing for some time through such dismal streets, we déboucher on
the grande place; and before us lies the palace dedicated to all the
glories of France. In the midst of the great lonely plain this famous
residence of King Louis looks low and mean--Honored pile! Time was when
tall musketeers and gilded body-guards allowed none to pass the gate.
Fifty years ago, ten thousand drunken women from Paris broke through
the charm; and now a tattered commissioner will conduct you through it
for a penny, and lead you up to the sacred entrance of the palace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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