Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
[Footnote: From "The Meccas of the World." By permission of the
publisher, John Lane. Copyright, 1913.]
The most prejudiced will not deny that Paris is beautiful; or that
there is about her streets and broad, tree-lined avenues a graciousness
at once dignified and gay. Stand, as the ordinary tourist does on his
first day, in the flowering square before the Louvre; in the foreground
are the fountains and bright tulip-bordered paths of the
Tuileries--here a glint of gold, there a soft flash of marble statuary,
shining through the trees; in the center the round lake where the
children sail their boats. Beyond spreads the wide sweep of the Place
de la Concorde, with its obelisk of terrible significance, its larger
fountains throwing brilliant jets of spray; and then the trailing,
upward vista of the Champs Elysées to the great triumphal arch; yes,
even to the most indifferent, Paris is beautiful.
To the subtler of appreciation, she is more than beautiful; she is
impressive. For behind the studied elegance of architecture, the
elaborate simplicity of garden, the carefully lavish use of sculpture
and delicate spray, is visible the imagination of a race of passionate
creators--the imagination, throughout, of the great artist. One meets
it at every turn and corner, down dim passageways, up steep hills,
across bridges, along sinuous quays; the masterhand and its "infinite
capacity for taking pains." And so marvelously do its manifestations of
many periods through many ages combine to enhance one another that one
is convinced that the genius of Paris has been perennial; that St.
Genevieve, her godmother, bestowed it as an immortal gift when the city
was born.
From earliest days every man seems to have caught the spirit of the man
who came before, and to have perpetuated it; by adding his own
distinctive yet always harmonious contribution to the gradual
development of the whole. One built a stately avenue; another erected a
church at the end; a third added a garden on the other side of the
church, and terraces leading up to it; a fourth and fifth cut streets
that should give from the remaining two sides into other flowery
squares with their fine edifices. And so from every viewpoint, and from
every part of the entire city, to-day we have an unbroken series of
vistas--each one different and more charming than the last.
History has lent its hand to the process, too; and romance--it is not
an insipid chain of flowerbeds we have to follow, but the holy warriors
of Saint Louis, the roistering braves of Henry the Great, the gallant
Bourbons, the ill-starred Bonapartes. These as they passed have left
their monuments; it may be only in a crumbling old chapel or ruined
tower, but there they are, eloquent of days that are dead, of a spirit
that lives forever staunch in the heart of the fervent French people.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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