Europeanization of Belgrade.--Lighting and paving.--Interior of the fortress.--Turkish Pasha.--Turkish quarter.--Turkish population.--Panorama of Belgrade.--Dinner party given by the prince. CHAPTER VII. Return to Servia.--The Danube.--Semlin.--Wucics and Petronievitch.--Cathedral solemnity.--Subscription ball. CHAPTER VIII. Holman, the blind traveller.--Milutinovich, the poet.--Bulgarian legend.--Tableau de genre.--Departure for the interior. CHAPTER IX. Journey to Shabatz.--Resemblance of manners to those of the middle ages.--Palesh.--A Servian bride.--Blind minstrel.--Gipsies.--Macadamized roads. CHAPTER X. Shabatz.--A provincial chancery.--Servian collector.--Description of his house.--Country barber.--Turkish quarter.--Self-taught priest.--A provincial dinner.--Native soiree. CHAPTER XI. Kaimak.--History of a renegade.--A bishop's house.--Progress of education.--Portrait of Milosh.--Bosnia and the Bosnians.--Moslem fanaticism.--Death of the collector. CHAPTER XII. The banat of Matchva.--Losnitza.--Feuds on the frontier.--Enter the back-woods.--Convent of Tronosha.--Greek festival.--Congregation of peasantry.--Rustic finery. CHAPTER XIII. Romantic sylvan scenery.--Patriarchal simplicity of manners.--Krupena.--Sokol.--Its extraordinary position.--Wretched town.--Alpine scenery.--Cool reception.--Valley of the Rogatschitza. CHAPTER XIV. The Drina.--Liubovia.--Quarantine station.--Derlatcha.--A Servian beauty.--A lunatic priest.--Sorry quarters.--Murder by brigands. CHAPTER XV. Arrival at Ushitza.--Wretched street.--Excellent khan.--Turkish vayvode.--A Persian dervish.--Relations of Moslems and Christians.--Visit the castle.--Bird's eye view. CHAPTER XVI. Poshega.--The river Morava.--Arrival at Csatsak.--A Viennese doctor.--Project to ascend the Kopaunik.--Visit the bishop.--Ancient cathedral church.--Greek mass.--Karanovatz.--Emigrant priest.--Albanian disorders.--Salt mines. CHAPTER XVII. Coronation church of the ancient kings of Servia.--Enter the Highlands.--Valley of the Ybar.--First view of the High Balkan.--Convent of Studenitza.--Byzantine Architecture.--Phlegmatic monk.--Servian frontier.--New quarantine.--Russian major. CHAPTER XVIII. Cross the Bosniac frontier.--Gipsy encampment.--Novibazar described.--Rough reception.--Precipitate departure.--Fanaticism. CHAPTER XIX. Ascent of the Kopaunik.--Grand prospect.--Descent of the Kopaunik.--Bruss.--Involuntary bigamy.--Conversation on the Servian character.--Krushevatz.--Relics of monarchy. CHAPTER XX. Formation of the Servian monarchy.--Contest between the Latin and Greek Churches.--Stephen Dushan.--A great warrior.--Results of his victories.--Kucs Lasar.--Invasion of Amurath.--Battle of Kossovo.--Death of Lasar and Amurath.--Fall of the Servian monarchy.--General observations. CHAPTER XXI. A battue missed.--Proceed to Alexinatz.--Foreign-Office courier.--Bulgarian frontier.--Gipsy Suregee.--Tiupria.--New bridge and macadamized roads.