CHAPTER XXII. Visit to Ravanitza.--Jovial party.--Servian and Austrian jurisdiction.--Convent described.--Eagles reversed.--Bulgarian festivities. CHAPTER XXIII. Manasia.--Has preserved its middle-age character.--Robinson Crusoe.--Wonderful echo.--Kindness of the people.--Svilainitza.--Posharevatz.--Baby giantess. CHAPTER XXIV. Rich soil.--Mysterious waters.--Treaty of Passarovitz.--The castle of Semendria.--Relics of the antique.--The Brankovitch family.--Panesova.--Morrison's pills. CHAPTER XXV. Personal appearance of the Servians.--Their moral character.--Peculiarity of manners.--Christmas festivities.--Easter.--The Dodola. CHAPTER XXVI. Town life.--The public offices.--Manners half-oriental half-European.--Merchants and tradesmen.--Turkish population.--Porters.--Barbers.--Cafes.--Public writer. CHAPTER XXVII. Poetry.--Journalism.--The fine arts.--The Lyceum.--Mineralogical cabinet.--Museum.--Servian Education. CHAPTER XXVIII. Preparations for departure.--Impressions of the East.--Prince Alexander.--The palace.--Kara Georg. CHAPTER XXIX. A memoir of Kara Georg. CHAPTER XXX. Milosh Obrenovitch. CHAPTER XXXI. The prince.--The government.--The senate.--The minister for foreign affairs.--The minister of the interior.--Courts of justice.--Finances. CHAPTER XXXII. Agriculture and commerce. CHAPTER XXXIII. The foreign agents. CHAPTER XXXIV. VIENNA IN 1844. Improvements in Vienna.--Palladian style.--Music.--Theatres.--Sir Robert Gordon.--Prince Metternich.--Armen ball.--Dancing.--Strauss.--Austrian policy. CHAPTER XXXV. Concluding observations on Austria and her prospects. SERVIA. CHAPTER I. Leave Beyrout.--Camp afloat.--Rhodes.--The shores of the Mediterranean suitable for the cultivation of the arts.--A Moslem of the new school.--American Presbyterian clergyman.--A Mexican senator.--A sermon for sailors.--Smyrna.--Buyukdere.--Sir Stratford Canning.--Embark for Bulgaria. I have been four years in the East, and feel that I have had quite enough of it for the present. Notwithstanding the azure skies, bubbling fountains, Mosaic pavements, and fragrant _narghiles_, I begin to feel symptoms of ennui, and a thirst for European life, sharp air, and a good appetite, a blazing fire, well-lighted rooms, female society, good music, and the piquant vaudevilles of my ancient friends, Scribe, Bayard, and Melesville. At length I stand on the pier of Beyrout, while my luggage is being embarked for the Austrian steamer lying in the roads, which, in the Levantine slang, has lighted her chibouque, and is polluting yon white promontory, clear cut in the azure horizon, with a thick black cloud of Wallsend.