TOILÉ Is the clothing, "fond," or closer texture in the pattern of both needle- and bobbin-made lace. Toilé is so called because it resembles toile or linen. The various details of the toilé in needle-point lace are usually outlined by a buttonhole stitch cordonnet, or sometimes merely by a single thread, and are then fitted to each other to form a complete design. This fitting together of the several parts is well exemplified in No. 40, Venetian cut linen lace, in which the fond is really of toilé, cut and joined by brides. In all the other specimens the toilé is wholly of needle-point work. In the earlier needle-point laces brides were used, but in later ones the whole background usually consists of a réseau. TOMBOLO Lace pillow. TRINA Lace. TRINE AD AGO, needle-made laces; TRINE A FUSELLI, bobbin-made laces--Italian terms in present use. SEVEN CENTURIES OF LACE Many books giving patterns for lace-making were produced in the sixteenth century, but few of them afford any technical instruction in the art, and all assume that lace was already in demand throughout Europe. We need not therefore take these interesting little books into consideration in determining the antiquity of lace, although they are of great assistance on the question of design, as they constantly show by introducing the gammadion and other symbols, the survival of the Oriental tradition.[A] This is also clearly shown in the numerous specimens of embroideries and woven silks made in Sicily and Spain in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and preserved in our own and Continental museums. [A] Eyn neu Kunstlichbuch, &c. Metre piere quinty Cologne, 1527. The earliest specimens of lace stitches in my possession are on pieces of Coptic linen work from tombs of the third to the fifth century from the collection of Mr. R. de Rustafjaell. The threads purposely left loose in the weaving are held by punto a rammendo worked in white linen thread. A background of coloured worsted is afterwards added,[B] (_See_ Plate 4.) It is interesting to compare the towel, NO. 1 in Plate 28, which in my opinion has probably been worked in the same way, that is, the weaver has omitted the woof threads, leaving only the warp threads to be drawn together by needlework. The bobbin-lace found in the same tomb is illustrated in Plate 5.