[B] Darning stitch exists in the British Museum on a piece of
material woven from flax, and found in an Egyptian tomb. And chain
stitch is seen on a fragment of Greek work of the fourth century,
B.C., at the Hermitage, St. Petersburg.
The first mention of lace-making in Europe that I know of is an old rule
of the thirteenth century for English nuns, cautioning them against
devoting too much time to lace and ornamental work to the detriment of
work for the poor.[C]
[C] "Ne makie none purses ... ne _laz_ bute leave, auh schepied, and
seouwed, and amended cherche clodes, and poure monne clodes."
"Do not make no purses ... nor _lace_, without leave, but shape and
sew, and mend, church-vestments and poor people's clothes."
"The Ancren Riwle" (The Nun's Rule), p. 420, h. A.D. 1210. Morton's
edition, Old English, 1853.
This _laz_ or lace was doubtless lacis. This lacis or network, now
called modano in Italy, was the earliest foundation for the work of
needle-made lace "trine ad ago." We find in the Appendix to Dugdale's
History of St. Paul's mention of work of "albo filo nodato" knotted
white thread. This was noted at a Visitation made in 1295.[D] But pieces
of this opus sfilatorium have also been found in Egyptian tombs. Early
specimens often have the gammadion or symbol of the cross. _See_ Plate
4.
[D] Dugdale, "St. Paul's," p. 316.
A roll of the possessions of the Templars after their suppression in
1312 includes an inventory of the goods of Temple Church. One item of
this is "one net which is called _Espinum_ to cover Lectern, 2_s._"[E]
We must look to the specimens existing from early times in Europe, and
to contemporary testimony, whether of painting or sculpture, to enable
us to fix the date of these interesting productions of human
industry--the early lacis and linen laces. Embroidery on silk, in which
many of the lace stitches were used, has a very early record.
[E] "Norfolk Archæology," vol. v. (Norwich 1859), p. 91.
Here we need only cite the many magnificent examples of embroidered
Church vestments, chasubles, copes, &c., so freely produced from the
thirteenth century onwards, of which the wonderful Dalmatic of the ninth
century in the Vatican Treasury, the Syon Cope of the thirteenth
century in the Victoria and Albert Museum, together with others, are to
this date in excellent and almost perfect condition.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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