Many of the earlier albs are decorated with passemens or apparels, which
are squares or oblongs of ornamental work often enriched with gold
thread. These were sewn on the lower part of the front of the alb and on
the cuff of the sleeve. The alb preserved at the Cathedral of Sens, and
said to have been worn by St. Thomas of Canterbury, is ornamented in
this way. In some of the old books of patterns for lace, the
straight-edged laces are all called passemens, and only the pointed ones
dentelles, or pizzi.
Later the apparels gave place to ornament worked on the linen itself,
and often forming a continuous band of decoration more or less wide
round the edge. A tombstone on the floor of the church of St. Sabina in
Rome has a recumbent figure with an alb decorated with a band of this
kind. The inscription denotes that the figure represents a German abbot,
named Egidius Varnsprach; the date is 1312. Later still, lace of all
kinds was merely sewn on to the alb as a flounce, in the way usually
adopted at the present time.
As far as I am aware, only two complete albs of early linen lace exist.
They are both of very fine texture, the thread of the linen having been
spun with great care and the weaving very closely done. The oldest is
the alb, Plate 1, which is said to have been woven and ornamented by
St. Clare of Assisi and her nuns, and is still preserved in the
monastery of that place. The tradition is that it was worn by St.
Francis of Assisi. I was fortunately able to examine it closely and to
obtain details of the lacework, which is worked on the linen itself in
tela tirata and punto reale. Symbolic animals and chimeras are
introduced, but the polygonal character of the design is preserved
throughout, and establishes, I consider, its Coptic derivation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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