Now, if we remember that albs and other linen vestments used at Mass
have been for centuries as necessary and important as the outer ones of
silk, it must be allowed that while such a wealth of decoration was
lavished on the latter, adornment of the former was not likely to have
been omitted. I am, therefore, of opinion that much of the lacis, tela
tirata, and reticello work generally ascribed to the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries, may more correctly be considered to be earlier in
date. That few of such ancient specimens remain is no doubt due to the
linen thread being less durable than the silk and also to that arch
enemy of lace in all ages, the washerwoman. As silk and gold embroidery
could not be washed, it survived. All who have to care for Church
vestments at the present time know that albs and other linen objects for
Church use are comparatively short-lived, and it must be remembered that
lace in early times was chiefly made for Church purposes.
After consulting illuminated manuscripts of the eighth and ninth
centuries, I have come to the conclusion that there is in them strong
evidence of lacework having been employed to ornament the albs worn even
at those periods. St. Mark, in a Gospel (now in the Bibliothèque
Nationale, Paris) said to have been written for Charlemagne, wears an
alb which appears to me to be of this kind. Also in the Bibliothèque
Nationale, Paris, is a twelfth-century Bible, called the Bible of St.
Martial, in which the Bishop is pictured wearing a highly ornamental alb
under his gothic-shaped chasuble. He grasps his pastoral staff in one
hand, and with the other he receives the precious Book.[F]
[F] Vol. viii., Plate 245, of Bastard's "Peintures et Ornements des
MSS." Paris, 1832-69.
On the question of design, as indicating the date of lacework, I am of
opinion that the early geometric character of primitive design was
sooner modified than is generally thought to be the case.
We find, for instance, in an eighth-century "Gospel" in the Bibliothèque
Nationale of Paris, a scroll ornament painted with vine leaves, grapes,
&c.
Why should not this have inspired a laceworker of the same period to
attempt a similar design? At a little later date a "Sacramentaire" has
most realistic flowers and leaves ornamenting the initials in the
Manuscript. These beautiful works of art were executed by religious
persons and monks, probably of the Benedictine Order. A great part of
the lace made at the same time was undoubtedly the work of nuns. What
more likely than that mutual assistance was given to carry out the
principal aim of both--the ornamentation and glory of the Sacred
Scriptures, and the services of the Church?
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