We now come to the third division made in needle-point lace--the punto
in aria, which may be said to be the starting-point of all subsequent
needle-point laces. No linen or netting being used the worker had to
construct her lace--in aria--out of nothing, and a splendid opening it
gave, as we shall now see, for invention and for execution. This punto
in aria, worked into points, was extensively used for personal
adornment: these points gave the name of pizzi to lace, a name which
still survives in Italy as comprehensive of all lace, as the name
dentelle is in France. The first examples I give here are the two
dentated (or vandyked) borders of Plate 31.
The chalice cover, Plate 32, is a very interesting combination of
reticello and punto in aria; the lines of the cut-linen foundation are
carried across and form a lattice behind the punto in aria devices. The
beautifully worked waved pattern circling round the design may be
intended to represent St. Peter's chains: the Saint stands with the
Scriptures in one hand and the Keys in the other, and has a winged
cherub on each side; the edge is of punto in aria.
The reticello pattern of Plate 33 is beautifully rendered in punto
avorio and punto in aria. This piece, unlike the specimens given before,
has no linen foundation, and therefore is classed as punto in aria and
not as reticello or cutwork.
The corporal border of Plate 34, of very conventional floral pattern is,
I think, undoubtedly of German early seventeenth-century work.
The border of the Venetian cloth in Plate 35, is a very fine specimen of
punto in aria. The two insertions, of which one is given, are alike.
They have strange winged and tailed animals alternating with scrolls and
vases. The vandyked border is a wonderful piece of work containing
altogether forty-eight small figures, and, as is often the case in
Venetian work, the figures, birds and animals have tiny black glass
beads for eyes. The animals have loops of fine buttonhole stitch to
denote manes.
A very interesting and beautiful piece of punto in aria is Plate 36. The
design is still reminiscent of the East; the flowing interlaced
flower-stems, with animals introduced, have quite a Persian effect. But
the beautiful rendering of the pendant flowers, and the true love knots,
as well as the heraldic device of the Visconti (the crowned serpent)
mark the elegance and freedom of the Renaissance. It was, no doubt, made
in Venice in the late sixteenth century.
The punto in aria trimming for the neck of an alb, Plate 37, is a very
remarkable piece, and the execution full of interest. The work is
entirely without foundation. The figures are clothed with mantles of
very beautifully worked network, called in Italy mezza mandolina. The
edges of the mantles are worked in punto avorio. Realism is attempted by
representing the features in relief, and little black beads are added to
the eyes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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