A curious border of the Venetian rose-point is No. 1, Plate 38, worked
entirely in punto a festone. Birds and serpents occur, and the thick
cordonnet which outlines the pattern is also used to denote the scales
of the serpents and the feathers of the birds, tiny black beads mark the
eyes as in Plate 37. The edging is of very fine punto avorio. A specimen
of the so-called coraline Venice needle-point is also on this Plate.
In Plate 39 we have a very interesting specimen of needle-point as
applied to personal use--a lady's camisia, or shirt, of the sixteenth
century. The linen has a square hole cut for the head, and this opening
is beautifully worked in punto in aria. The sleeves are ornamental with
oblique bands of cut-work, and the seams everywhere worked with drawn
stitches and insertions of punto avorio. The handwoven linen is in good
condition, although the garment must have been much worn, as the cuffs
have been replaced by bobbin-made frills, trine a fuselli. It is
doubtful whether three hundred years hence any linen garment worn at the
present time will survive.
From the beginning of the sixteenth century the fashion began of
working portions of the lace separately, and joining them together by
brides, and modes or fillings were also introduced, into the pattern.
Later, from about 1630, the réseau ground was introduced, covering the
whole space between the patterns; the patterns themselves also changed,
and from being geometric and conventional became more and more
realistic. The stately lace of Venice, however, may be said to have
always preserved its conventional tradition, whether in the heavy rose
or raised point or the delicate point à réseau.
Venice obtained her pre-eminence of lace-making in the sixteenth
century. The flat point is probably the earliest distinctive lace; but
this was soon enriched by work upon work, stitch upon stitch, which gave
the name of rose-point or punto in rilievo. The characteristic ornament
in the heavy so-called gros point de Venise consists of conventional
blossoms like leaves and scrolls treated as though carved in ivory or
bone, and to it applies the title of punto tagliato a fogliami. The
brides are sometimes quite plain, but later are adorned with picots.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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