A very interesting piece of old English needle-point work is No. 80, a
cap of Holy, or Hollie, work. A close réseau is worked by using a stitch
very similar to buttonhole stitch, and the effect is of a texture very
like the cambric it adorns. The pattern is made by missing stitches,
forming small holes.
Hollie lace was chiefly used to decorate infants' caps, etc., for
baptism, and the pot with flower, reminiscent of the Annunciation, the
Holy Dove, etc., were devices frequently introduced into the patterns.
Collars of this work are mentioned in Queen Mary Stuart's inventories.
Number 2, Plate 80, is a specimen of Limerick run lace.
Three pieces of Irish needle-lace, Nos. 1 and 2 of Plate 81, are
praiseworthy as very early specimens of this industry. The designs are
nondescript, but many of the stitches are well executed. A bobbin-made
tape is introduced in No. 1. No. 3 is the so-called Carrickmacross lace;
a muslin and machine net foundation is neatly outlined by fine whipped
stitches; and buttonhole-stitch brides picotées are used to join the
patterns after the background is cut away. This lace was first made
after the famine of 1846.
BOBBIN-MADE LACE
The earliest bobbin lace was made by using the same threads for the
whole of the lace, thus, when the pattern had been pricked out and the
requisite number of bobbins charged with thread, the plaiting and
twisting the threads into lace was begun.
The starlike effect in the old Malta laces was very simply made by
taking fourteen bobbins to work a strip of the required length; this was
then joined up as required into a pattern of more or less regular and
starlike form, partly, no doubt, to imitate the older geometric designs.
The same bobbins were used throughout. _See_ Plate 83.
The same style of making is more beautifully carried out in the two
patterns of Plate 84. The lace in No. 1 is unfortunately very much worn,
but the way the bobbin-made strip is arranged to make flowerlike forms
is very ingenious; the ground is completely covered and yet nothing is
awkward or crowded. No. 2 is also a very fine example of this simple
bobbin work. I consider both to be early Venetian.
Number 1 of Plate 85 is a typical pattern of the lace which, originally
no doubt inspired by the East has become universal under the name of
"peasant" lace. We find it in Russia, Hungary, Dalmatia, Spain, Sicily,
Sardinia, in fact wherever lace was made at all, this pattern with
slight variations is supreme. Ceylon and India produce very similar
lace, as also does South America. I have therefore made no special
reference to these peasant laces, as although quite satisfactory from
the point of view of utility, they are only otherwise interesting as the
product of an industry much to be encouraged.
Numbers 2, 3 and 4, on Plate 85, may be considered as showing a
transition state, as in all three there is an attempt to add a
background to the toile or tapelike pattern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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