In needle-point made at Argentan we find a style and design such as we
should expect from its close neighbourhood to Alençon. The sole
peculiarity of the Argentan workers was that, not content with the
almost incredible toil involved in the lace of Alençon, they actually
worked the whole réseau of their lace over in buttonhole stitch, thus
making those compactly stitched hexagonal meshes which are distinctive
of this wonderful fabric. The Argentan réseau was sometimes introduced
into lace made at Alençon and elsewhere. The specimens, Nos. 68 and 69,
are representative of this rare lace.
The two specimens--one of silk and one of linen thread, Nos. 1 to 2,
Plate 70--I consider to be Portuguese, from the curious though rather
handsome and effective jumble of design which is often found in Spanish
and Portuguese work.
The Brussels needle-point of No. 3, Plate 70, and Plate 71 and Plate 72,
must seem poor and thin when compared to the preceding laces. But it is
very beautiful in its own delicate style, and has been called the
laciest of laces. The réseau is very fragile, hence the name sometimes
given of point de gaze. The designs shown have not the complete realism
aimed at in the Brussels lace of the present day, but have a charm of
their own which I confess attracts me more than all the brilliant
improvements of the last sixty years.
The two specimens of darned work on bobbin net, Plates 73 and 74,
especially the latter, are remarkable for the beauty and variety of the
work.
Plate 75 and Plate 76 have specimens of the beautiful and intricate work
called Tönder muslin lace made in Denmark in the eighteenth
century. The following, Plate 77, is lace of the same kind but made in
South Germany. I obtained these pieces in Leipzig forty years ago.
Number 2, in Plate 76, has a design and fillings which almost recall
those in the finest Alençon laces of the late seventeenth century.
Plate 78 has four specimens of eighteenth-century Dutch linen lace made
for caps; it is called Gouda lace; the fillings are very well
done.
In the Manila fibre lace, Plate 79, No. 1, the ground is entirely worked
over by the needle into small squares, giving the appearance of network.
This is done in the same way as the earlier tela tirata, the threads
drawn together and sewn with wonderful regularity, without any thread
being cut.
The two specimens of needle-point, Plate 79, Nos. 2 and 3, made entirely
of human hair, are rather difficult to render in a photograph. They are
evidently copied from Venetian patterns, and the various shades of hair
used have a very pretty effect, while the execution of such fine work in
so fragile a material must have demanded extreme skill and deftness of
hand. They were made about 1800, at the Bar Convent, York.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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