In the Genoese laces in Plates 90 and 91 we have examples of what may be
called the second manner of bobbin lace. The patterns of conventional
sprays and flowers are made on the pillow separately, and afterwards
joined by brides picotées, also bobbin-made. In the lace made in this
second manner, in which many laces were made at successive periods in
Milan, Genoa, Brussels and Honiton, the threads forming the connecting
brides, and later the réseau, can be detected by looking on the reverse
of the lace, as they are seen passing behind the patterns. An example of
this carrying threads across is shown in the Honiton lace, Plate 118.
Plate 92 represents one of the finest examples I have seen of Genoese
bobbin lace, trine a fuselli. The design is of gracefully arranged
scrolls and flowers, and includes five birds which are introduced in the
most spirited manner. The several tapey shapes, made separately and
joined by brides, form the complete design or pattern, the fillings
between them are very good, and include the starlike work characteristic
of Genoa. This illustration is on a reduced scale in order to show the
pattern of the lace. Plate 93 represents the exact size of the same
lace.
Plate 94 is a flounce of Milanese bobbin lace, trine a fuselli. The
pattern is of scrolls and flowers, a heraldic crowned eagle and small
birds, with various fillings in the spaces enclosed. A very strong
réseau connects the whole.
Plate 95, a flounce of the same lace, has a very beautiful flowing
design of scrolls, with a background of the characteristic réseau of
Milanese work.
The Milanese alb flounce (Plate 96) is a very fine piece of much later
date. The spaces enclosed by the toilé or tapey parts are filled by
bobbin-made fillings or à jours, of various designs, a very strong and
evenly made réseau connects the whole.
The two specimens of Italian lace, Plate 97, are of very elegant design;
they also have the fond chant pattern of réseau. This style of lace was
made both in North and South Italy up to sixty or seventy years ago, but
coarser thread was then introduced with disastrous effect.
In the narrow Maltese lace of Plate 98 we have in No. 1 the réseau
called mariage; this lace, and Nos. 2 and 3, were made in Malta about
1780.
Turning now to the bobbin-made lace of Flanders, I begin with No. 1 on
Plate 99, which has no less than three characteristic lengths joined to
form one border. The straight edge, the rather abrupt design, and the
réseau cinq trous, indicate a Flemish make of lace. The pattern No. 2
has the clear whiter thread outline. This lace is sometimes called
Trolle Kant.
The cap, Plate 100, is of later date; the réseau cinq trous, worked with
a very opened out effect, can be observed in the fillings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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