The early Mechlin lace resembles in design the point d'Angleterre, and,
indeed, also the Alençon lace of the same date. It is most interesting
to compare, say, the Mechlin, Plate 101, with the d'Angleterre, Plate
104, and the Venise à réseau of Plate 57. Yet the makings of the three
laces are absolutely different--the Venice entirely by needle; the
Angleterre is made in two different stages of bobbin work; the Mechlin,
as is always the case, was made in the third manner, the threads
originally started on the bobbins carrying the work to a finish, and
ingeniously sufficing for toilé, réseau, and fillings. Later, Mechlin,
for reasons already stated, became a mere border, as shown in Plate 102.
It is no longer made. This is also the case with Binche lace (Plate
103). A very beautiful fond de neige, used sometimes as a ground and
sometimes as a filling or à jours, distinguishes this lace. The work is
very fine and close, the edge is usually straight. It is sometimes
called fausses Valenciennes.
Brussels gives its name to a variety of beautiful laces. The most
renowned is the point d'Angleterre, made in great quantities during the
later part of the seventeenth century for the English market. The
designs, as on Plate 104, recall those of the Venise à réseau and of
Alençon of the same period; the beautiful flowing garlands, the waved
edge with varied fillings, the brides picotées forming the hexagonal
réseau, will bear comparison with the Venice lace of Plate 57, and the
Alençon of Plate 63. This truly wonderful point d'Angleterre has a very
fine toilé; the flowers and scrolls were first made on the pillow and
then joined by the réseau (vrai Bruxelles), long used for the highest
class of all Brussels bobbin-made laces. Lace of this fineness is no
longer made since the fine handspun thread cannot be obtained.
Brussels lace followed the fashion which, as we have seen, obtained in
France. In the late eighteenth century only a border was necessary, as
lace was worn in a profusion of flounces and frills; and Plate 106 shows
a border very similar in design to the Alençon of the same date. The
delicate flowers and leaves are joined by the fine réseau mentioned
above--namely Brussels vrai réseau, a title employed to distinguish it
from machine-made net. This last was introduced during the first quarter
of the nineteenth century, and soon gave a different character to
Brussels lace, when the flowers made on the pillow were sewn (appliqué)
to a simple net made sometimes by hand, but more often by machine.
In the Antwerp lace scarf, No. 1, Plate 107, the fond chant or point de
Paris réseau is used, and here we have an example of Potten Kant, or pot
lace, so-called because in early times the subject of the Annunciation,
with the pots of lilies usually added, was introduced into the designs
for it. The indication of flower-pots certainly occurs in many pieces,
though not in mine, and no piece exists, as far as I know, with figures.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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