The cap of Lille lace, No. 2, Plate 107, has the simple twisted thread
réseau characteristic of this and of Arras lace. It is not to be
distinguished from the réseau often used in Buckingham lace.
We must again notice how similar the design in the fine old Valenciennes
of Plate 108 is to that of Alençon needle-point of the same date. The
réseau is closely plaited, and the toilé of the beautiful patterns
compact and clear in definition. No outline or cordonnet is used in
Valenciennes lace. The early lace has what is called the round réseau,
the later Valenciennes made at Yprès has a square réseau (Plate 109).
This latter lace is still made, but has not the charm of the
eighteenth-century lace.
The lace (Plate 110) was probably made in Paris. It is very curious,
with heraldic device of an eagle with a shield; dogs also, and stags,
are introduced. It may have been made for a wedding about 1690. This
lace is often described in the inventories of old families in France as
dentelle de chasse.
The Blonde lace (Plate 111) was made in Chantilly for a wedding in 1820.
Plate 112 gives three specimens of bobbin-made lace, with the so-called
maglia di Spagna, or Spanish mesh. No. 1 is of linen thread, with a
coarser thread introduced; but one should remark that this thread is not
used to outline the pattern as in Flemish lace. I have not met this
réseau in any Flemish lace. Nos. 2 and 3 are bobbin-made silk lace, and
were ruffles for a Court dress-coat.
The black mantilla, Plate 113, has the fond chant réseau used as a
filling, and, although bought in Madrid in 1840, it may have been made
in France.
The difficulty of working the materials of gold and silver lace is so
great that absolute regularity of either pattern or réseau is
impossible. This, however, in my opinion, only renders these rare laces
more interesting. Both metals are used in the characteristic specimen of
sixteenth-century Spanish lace, No. 1 in Plate 114.
Number 2 is a silver seventeenth-century lace from Genoa, the edge is a
shell pattern, and several thicknesses of the metal-covered silk thread
are used. Plate 115 has four patterns of seventeenth-century gold and
silver lace made in Italy, probably at Lucca.
The Brussels lappet, made in 1849, Plate 116, was then considered one of
the finest ever made, the pattern is pretty and realistic, and
foreshadows the style since prevalent.
The Bedfordshire lappet, on the same plate, is far inferior in
execution, but was made by a cottager at about the same time and has
done good service.
Two patterns of Buckinghamshire lace, Plate 117, made about 1790, show
more even workmanship than is generally seen in this lace. No. 2 has a
likeness to the Mechlin and Lille lace of the same date; No. 1 is more
like the Flemish Trolle Kant, and was, in fact, called Trolly lace. It
will be observed that the fillings have the six-pointed star, or fond
chant réseau, so prevalent in pillow lace.
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