Sewage and Garbage Disposal on the Farm — John Shaqi
Sewage and Garbage Disposal on the FarmRockey, J. W. (John Wesley)
Science
Sewage and Garbage Disposal on the Farm
Rockey, J. W. (John Wesley)
Sanitation, Rural; Sewage disposal, Rural
Run the house sewer in a straight line and avoid bends whenever
possible. Slight changes in direction may be made with one-sixteenth or
one-eighth bend fittings. For sharper changes of direction a manhole or
distribution box may be used. Changes in direction of more than 45 are
not recommended unless a manhole is provided. Clean-outs are desirable
within 5 feet of the septic tank where tanks are placed more than 20
feet from the building and the sewer line is not buried deeper than 4
feet.
Establishing Line and Grade
The trench for laying the sewer is usually dug after the septic-tank
excavation has been completed and the elevation of the tank inlet
determined. A simple method of setting guides for the excavation is
illustrated in figure 2.
Digging the Trench
Start digging the trench at the tank end, so that rain or seepage will
have an outlet. Rounding the bottom of the trench to the shape of the
pipe and hollowing out basins for the "bell" ends allows the pipe to
rest firmly throughout its full length, permits full calking of joints,
and relieves the strain on them.
Laying the Pipe
Begin laying the pipe at the tank with the bell end uphill. Joints in
clay-tile pipe are commonly made with portland cement mortar or grout.
Where root-proof joints are essential, sulfur-sand compounds may be
used or copper rings provided and used with cement-mortar joints.
Asphalt-mastic compounds, however, are more satisfactory. For cast-iron
soil pipe, lead is the standard joint material.
After the hub is pushed into the bell, oakum (or old hemp rope) is
packed with a calking iron or a piece of wood (fig. 3, _A_.) solidly
and evenly in the joint to a depth of about half an inch to center the
hub end in the bell and to keep the joint filler from getting inside
the pipe. Oil, grease, or dirt on the joint surfaces should be removed,
as it will prevent joint material from sticking. Figure 3 shows the
different jointing methods.
[Illustration: Figure 2.--Establishing grade for sewer. _A_,
2- by 4-inch stakes are set each side of the trench at convenient
distances _a_, _b_, _c_, and _d_. Then a board is nailed horizontally
on the stakes at _d_ at a convenient height above the bottom of the
trench, that is, the bottom of the sewer leaving the house. A board is
nailed likewise to the stakes at a the same height above the inlet to
the tank that _d_ is above the bottom of the trench. Similarly, boards
are set at _b_ and _c_ by sighting from _a_ to _d_ so the tops of the
intermediate boards will be in line. _B_, The exact grade of the sewer
is obtained by measuring from the grade cord with the 1- by 1-inch
stick, shown in detail. The length of the stick must equal the height
of the board above sewer at _d_.]
Bituminous, sulfur-sand, lead, and other commercial joint compounds are
poured while hot into the joint from a ladle (fig. 3, _F_), and when
the work is well done they form a joint that is practically root-proof.
They are more expensive than cement mortar.
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