Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
Semna is a kind of cheese made from goat’s milk. In the morning the
sheep and goats are milked into wooden bowls, the milk is poured into
a water-skin and rolled vigorously up and down by two women seated on
the ground till it thickens into a sort of butter. The addition of a
certain herb is needed if it is to be made into cheese. One kind of
white butter made by the Arabs is very good and forms an excellent
substitute for real butter, and a change from the tinned species.
Arabs are very free in their conversation, and personal remarks are
not considered to be ill-mannered. They usually ask one’s age, and
inquire whether people are married or not. The idea of a man being over
twenty and still unmarried surprises them enormously; they think that
he can’t afford to buy a wife. They always show a keen interest in
what they consider the peculiar habits of Europeans. Hardly any of them
can read or write, and very few have ever been off the desert. When
a bedouin gets to Alexandria he is like a countryman in London. The
bedouin are superstitious, but not as intensely so as the oasis
dwellers. In every tent one notices a little bundle of charms hung on
one of the tent poles to avert the Evil Eye. One such collection would
consist of a black cock’s leg, a red rag, a dried frog, two bones,
and a little leather charm, tied together and hung on the pole.
One day I was sitting talking to some Arabs in a tent when suddenly I
realized that everybody was staring in a fascinated way at my mouth. I
wondered what was the matter. Then I heard the women whispering
to themselves: “He must be a very wealthy one; see how he adorns
himself with gold.” I couldn’t imagine what they meant as I was
only wearing a shirt, shorts and stockings, nothing very remarkable
in the way of clothes. Then I heard something about “Gold tooth,”
and I realized that their attention had been caught by a hideous gold
crown that had been put over one of my front teeth in a great hurry
just before I left Cairo the last time I was on leave. They thought
it a most attractive and novel form of decoration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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