Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
So much for the life of the caravan by day. By night the desert is
more romantic, but at the same time more dangerous. As the power
of sight is now limited, the circle of safety is contracted to
the most immediate neighbourhood; and both during the march and
in the encampment every one tries to keep as close as possible to
his fellows. By day the caravan consisted of but one long chain;
by night this is broken up into six or eight smaller ones, which,
marching close together, form a compact square, of which the outmost
lines are occupied by the stoutest and boldest. By moonlight the
shadow of the camels as they stalk along produces a curious and
impressive effect. During the dark starless night everything is full
of horror, and to go one step distant from the side of the caravan
is equivalent to leaving the home circle to plunge into a desolate
solitude. In the halt by day each one occupies whichever place may
please him best. At night, on the contrary, a compact camp is formed
under the direction of the _Kervan bashi_. The bales of goods are
heaped up in the middle; around them lie the men; while without, as
a wall of defence, the camels are laid, tightly packed together, in
a circle. I say laid, for these wonderful animals squat down at the
word of command, remain the whole night motionless in their place,
and, like children, do not get up the next morning until they are
told to do so. They are placed with their heads pointing outward
and their tails inward, for they perceive the presence of any enemy
from far, and give the alarm by a dull rattle in the throat, so that
even in their hours of repose they do duty as sentinels. Those who
sleep within the _rayon_ find themselves in immediate contact with
these beasts, and, as is well known, they have not the pleasantest
smell. It often happens that the saline fodder and water which these
animals feed upon produce palpable consequences for such as sleep
in their immediate neighbourhood. I myself often woke up with such
frescoes. But no one takes any notice of such things, for who could
be angry with these animals, who, although ugly in appearance, are
so patient, so temperate, so good-tempered, and so useful?
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