Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
It is no wonder that the wanderers over the desert praise the camel
as surpassing all other beasts of the field, and even love it with
an almost adoring affection. Nourished on a few thorns and thistles,
which other quadrupeds reject, it traverses the wastes for weeks,
nay, often for months together. In these dreary, desolate regions,
the existence of man depends upon that of the camel. It is, besides,
so patient and so obedient that a child can with one "_tshukh_"
make a whole herd of these tall strong beasts kneel down, and with
a "_berrr_" get up again. How much could I not read in their large
dark blue eyes! When the march is too long or the sand too deep,
they are accustomed to express their discomfort and weariness.
This is especially when they are being laden, if too heavy bales
are piled upon their backs. Bending under the burden, they turn
their heads round towards their master; in their eyes gleam tears,
and their groans, so deep, so piteous, seem to say, "Man, have
compassion upon us!"
Except during a particular season of the year, when through the
operation of the laws of nature it is in a half-intoxicated,
half-stupefied condition, the camel has always a striking impression
of seriousness. It is impossible not to recognise in its features
the Chaldee-aramæan type, and in whatever portions of the earth he
may be found at the present day, his original home is unquestionably
Mesopotamia and the Arabian desert. The Turkomans disturb this
serious expression of countenance by the barbarous manner in which
they arrange the leading-rope through the bored nose. With the
string hanging down to the chest, the camel resembles an European
dandy armed with his lorgnon. Both of them hold their heads high in
the air, and both are alike led by the nose.
As the word of command to encamp is enlivening and acceptable, so
grievous, so disturbing, is the signal for getting ready to start.
The _Kervan bashi_ is the first to rouse himself. At his call
or sign all prepare for the journey. Even the poor camels in the
pastures understand it, and often hasten without being driven to
the caravan; nay, what is more extraordinary, they place themselves
close to the bales of merchandize with which they were before
laden, or the persons who were mounted on them. In a quarter of an
hour everybody has found his place in the line of march. At the
halting-place there remains nothing but a few bones, gnawed clean,
and the charred traces of the improvised hearths. These marks of
human life in the desert often disappear as quickly as they were
produced; sometimes, however, they are preserved through climatic
accidents for a long time; and succeeding travellers are cheered by
falling in with these abandoned fireplaces. The black charred spot
seems to their eyes like a splendid _caravanserai_, and the thought
that here human beings have been, that here life once was active,
makes even the vast solitude of the desert more like home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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