Ceremonies and forms have, and merit, consideration in all countries,
but particularly among Asiatic nations. With these the intercourse of
private as well as public life is much regulated by their observance.
From the spirit and decision of a public Envoy upon such points, the
Persians very generally form their opinion of the character of the
country he represents. This fact I had read in books, and all I saw
convinced me of its truth. Fortunately the Elchee had resided at some
of the principal courts of India, whose usages are very similar. He
was, therefore, deeply versed in that important science denominated
"Kâida-e-nishest-oo-berkhâst" (or the art of sitting and rising), in
which is included a knowledge of the forms and manners of good society,
and particularly those of Asiatic kings and their courts.
He was quite aware, on his first arrival in Persia, of the consequence
of every step he took on such delicate points; he was, therefore,
anxious to fight all his battles regarding ceremonies before he came
near the footstool of royalty. We were consequently plagued, from the
moment we landed at Abusheher, till we reached Shiraz, with daily,
almost hourly drilling, that we might be perfect in our demeanour at
all places, and under all circumstances. We were carefully instructed
where to ride in a procession, where to stand or sit within-doors, when
to rise from our seats, how far to advance to meet a visitor, and to
what part of the tent or house we were to follow him when he departed,
if he was of sufficient rank to make us stir a step.
The regulations of our risings and standings, and movings and
reseatings, were, however, of comparatively less importance than the
time and manner of smoking our Kelliâns and taking our coffee. It is
quite astonishing how much depends upon coffee and tobacco in Persia.
Men are gratified or offended, according to the mode in which these
favourite refreshments are offered. You welcome a visitor, or send
him off, by the way in which you call for a pipe or a cup of coffee.
Then you mark, in the most minute manner, every shade of attention
and consideration, by the mode in which he is treated. If he be above
you, you present these refreshments yourself, and do not partake till
commanded: if equal, you exchange pipes, and present him with coffee,
taking the next cup yourself: if a little below you, and you wish
to pay him attention, you leave him to smoke his own pipe, but the
servant gives him, according to your condescending nod, the first cup
of coffee: if much inferior, you keep your distance and maintain your
rank, by taking the first cup of coffee yourself, and then directing
the servant, by a wave of the hand, to help the guest.
When a visitor arrives, the coffee and pipe are called for to welcome
him; a second call for these articles announces that he may depart;
but this part of the ceremony varies according to the relative rank or
intimacy of the parties.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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