Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
As my lodgings were in the immediate neighbourhood of both the cathedral
and the alcazar--under the roof indeed of the latter--it may be supposed
that it was not long before I visited both of these stupendous and
magnificent structures. The cathedral of Seville is inferior in riches,
but equal in size to that of Toledo; and, in the wealth of pictures, it
far surpasses every other cathedral in Spain. One of the most esteemed
of these, is the great picture of St. Anthony of Padua, which I have
already slightly mentioned, in the chapter dedicated to Murillo. This
picture, however, although a splendid performance, is not in Murillo’s
happiest style. In its colouring, it is far inferior, as a work of art,
to the pictures in the Capuchin convent, and in the Hospital de la
Caridad; but in the conception of the figure of St. Anthony, and in the
celestial expression of his countenance, all the peculiar graces of
Murillo are displayed. A picture that pleased me better than this, but
which has a less honourable niche, is “An Angel leading a Child;” benign
and glorious is the countenance of the angel, as he seems to point out
to the little innocent the way to heaven; and the child naturally draws
back, alarmed by the blaze of celestial light that shines upon the path.
This exquisite composition is only a sketch, and being placed in rather
an obscure corner, it is seen to greater advantage; for, with a more
favourable light, it would appear defective as a work of art. The
cathedral contains several other pictures of merit, both by Murillo and
by other artists, particularly Morales, and Louis de Vargas, and
Campaña, whose famous Descent from the Cross I have mentioned in my
memoir of Murillo. The riches of the cathedral surprised me less, after
having seen Toledo; but I believe they are second only to Toledo and the
Escurial. As for relics, they profess to have as valuable a store of
them as their neighbours. The organ--the principal organ--is the most
perfect in the world: it contains five thousand three hundred pipes, and
one hundred and ten stops, being considerably more than are possessed by
the organ of Haarlem; nothing can exceed the majesty of the music
awakened by this organ. I rarely missed morning service while I remained
in Seville; and if, as was sometimes the case, this heavenly music
filled the aisles after day-light had deserted them, the effect was
almost too overpowering for human senses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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