Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
The tower of the cathedral, is one of the boasts of Seville: it is of
Moorish architecture--the work of a Moor, and is three hundred and fifty
feet high. There are no steps; the summit is gained by an easy ascent,
winding around an inclined plain so gradually, that the queen was driven
up in a small carriage. The view from the top is superb. An almost
boundless plain stretches around Seville, its centre and queen; and the
Guadalquivir traverses its whole length. I counted no fewer than one
hundred and twenty spires and towers, belonging to the city and the
neighbouring villages and convents. The ecclesiastics of the cathedral
do not enjoy a sinecure. I passed through the body of the church many
times every day,--for this saved me a circuit,--and I never recollect to
have seen it once without some religious ceremony going forward. There
are said to be upwards of five hundred masses performed daily at the
different altars; and the number of persons directly employed in, and
supported by, the cathedral, exceeds six hundred.
The only convent in Seville that attracted me within its walls was the
Capuchin convent, famous as the depository of many of the most
remarkable works of Murillo. I have already spoken of some of these
pictures; but there is still something more to be gleaned. There are
here twenty-five pictures of Murillo, any one of which would suffice to
render a man immortal. Among these, the most remarkable are, “the
Archbishop of Valencia giving alms to a kneeling Beggar;” “the Virgin,
the Child, and St. Felix,” which I have already spoken of as beautifully
illustrating Murillo’s power of handling the gentler emotions. “The
Assumption,” “St. Bienventura and Bernardo,” “St. John, the Virgin and
Child,” “St. Antonio,” and “the Annunciation.” The paintings in the
hospital de la Caridad I have also mentioned as the efforts of Murillo’s
ripest genius. Several of these, particularly “the Prodigal Son,” and
“the Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison,” are no longer to be found
there; but “John of God,” “Moses striking the Rock,” and “the Miracle of
the Loaves and Fishes,” have escaped the chances of war, and the dangers
of covetousness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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