Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
A steam-boat leaves Seville every second day, for St. Lucar and Cadiz,
alternately. It is a great convenience to the inhabitants of Seville, to
be carried direct to Cadiz; because the journey over land from St.
Lucar, is both tedious and dangerous; but as I was desirous of seeing
the country, I preferred the steam-boat to St. Lucar. Between the city
gate and the river side, I was obliged to pay three sets of custom-house
officers, that I might escape the delay and inconvenience of having my
baggage searched; and when I remonstrated the third time against the
extortion, the officer candidly told me, it was all they had to depend
upon. The boat started at nine; and so precise are its arrangements,
that although it had not parted six yards from the shore, the master
refused to take in four passengers who were running down the bank. Half
a league from Seville, we passed an extensive line of Moorish walls and
fortifications, crowning a height about a mile from the river; these now
serve as the garden wall of the Franciscan convent, which is erected
behind. The weather was, as usual, delightful, and the views from deck,
were in the highest degree pleasing. The right bank of the river is
covered with olive grounds, which slope upward to the adjoining
elevations, covered with gardens and convents and villages. The left
bank presents a constant succession of extensive orange groves; and on
both sides, there is a carpet of the finest verdure. St. John’s Hill,
about two leagues from Seville, is another fine object; this is the
highest ground near Seville, and is a famous resort of parties of
pleasure: the handsome and extensive convent of Hieronomites, and many
little chapels and hermitages,--among others, the chapel of the Virgin,
who insisted upon dwelling here,--crown the elevation; and a subject
village straggles down the hill, and nestles at its foot. The passengers
were numerous; and among them, was a fair sprinkling of friars of the
Franciscan and Capuchin orders. These persons never forget that they
have the reputation of poverty to support; and a contribution is
accordingly always attempted, to pay their fares; and it generally
succeeds. Before reaching St. Lucar, the master of the boat asked me if
I wished to pay any thing for the friars; but my interrogatory in
return, whether he charged them less than other passengers, prevented a
repetition of the question. One passenger, however, subscribed
liberally; this was a young officer, who, from the employment of king’s
page, had been promoted to a commission in the army, and was on his way
to join his regiment at Cadiz. Whether Ferdinand had presented his page
with a purse at parting may be doubted; but the young officer produced a
purse marvellously well loaded, and presented a small gold piece of the
value of two dollars, to the captain of the vessel, towards the
expenses of the friars. Something, I think, may be gathered from this,
as to the education of those who are brought up at court.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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