my object, therefore, was to reach St. Lucar: but I had heard such bad reports of this part of the road, and the men who offered to conduct me to St. Lucar had so much the appearance of rogues, that I hesitated to put myself under their guidance, especially as the other passengers seemed to consider it the safer plan to remain at Bonanza. Two merchants of Cadiz, however, who wished to transact business at St. Lucar that night, proposed to me to join them, after they had applied in vain to most of the other passengers,--the king’s page among the rest,--who, with his two soldiers, declined running any risk. I agreed to accompany them, and we hired two _caleches_ and set out,--mine in front, that, as the merchants said, they might be able to keep an eye upon me and my driver. There is no road from Bonanza to St. Lucar; there is only a track among wild sand-hills, along the side of the river,--here at least a mile broad,--and there is not a single habitation the whole way. The driver walked at the head of the horse, leading it sometimes through deep sand,--oftener knee-deep in water; and the wild desolate country, seen beneath the star-light,--the uncertain and dangerous road,--and the low rush of the wide river, altogether contributed to give a character of great impressiveness to the scene. Coming suddenly upon a deep creek, I was startled by the bright glare of torches illuminating the barren shore, and falling upon a circle of strange-looking men, some seated, some standing upon the sand, close to the water; they were hauling a boat upon the beach, and the guide told me they were contrabandisters,--a very suspicious crew to meet at such an hour, and in such a place. “Buenas Noches Señores,” passed between us,--“Vayan ustedes con Dios,”--“Go with God,” and we passed on; and soon after we descried the lights of St. Lucar, where we arrived about half-past nine. A good supper,--rum and hot-water, and a fresh lemon, were soon placed upon the table, and sound sleep succeeded.